DELAWARE MASTER GARDENER

FEBRUARY GARDEN CALENDER

2012-01-29T12:27:00.000-05:00

For the First Half of the Month:

· Order seeds through catalogs to take advantage of early-bird discounts.

· Leave mulch on perennials continually; unfortunately, there are probably more cold days ahead.

· Prune ornamental plants like oak, yew, pine, juniper, and arborvitae to shape. Remove dead or unattractive parts of the tree such as branches and crotches that have crossed and sprouts or suckers growing at or near the base of the trunk. Also, remove branches broken due to winter winds and storms.

· Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous landscape plants.

· Watch for signs of growth from early spring bulbs, and when foliage is one-inch high, remove mulch gradually.

· Read seed packages for planting instructions. Don’t start garden plants indoors too early.

For the Second Half of the Month:

· Read gardening books to get garden/landscape ideas for spring and early summer.

· Order shrubs for spring planting.

· Order perennial plants and bulbs such as shasta daisies, gladiolus, and lilies to be used as cut flowers this summer.

· Prune grapevines while they are still dormant and use the pruned pieces to make wreaths to decorate your home or give as gifts.

· Examine houseplants. Weak, thin or soft growth may be an indication of insufficient light or high temperatures.

· Plan vegetable, perennial and herb gardens on paper. Compare last year’s notes to make improvements or adjustments in the plot size and planting locations.

JANUARY GARDENING CALENDER

2011-12-29T09:30:00.000-05:00

For the First Half of the Month:

· On warm days, go outside and check your perennials and bulbs to see if they have been heaved out of the ground by freezing and thawing of the soil. If so, press down firmly and cover with at least two inches of organic mulch.

· Thoroughly check your houseplants for pests. If you find any, treat these immediately before populations get too high.

· Another common problem of houseplants this time of year is the low humidity that is in most homes during the winter. One way to increase the humidity is to place plants over, but not in, trays which have water in them.

· In addition, low-light levels in your home may be causing some problems and may need to be adjusted. Move plants that normally do best on the north side of the house to an east window. For those plants that are ordinarily in the east windows, move them to a south location.

· Review your vegetable garden plans for the upcoming season.

· If you bought a live ball-rooted Christmas tree, remember to water it. It can be planted outside as long as the soil can be worked.

For the Second Half of the Month of January:

· Sit down on cold, snowy, or rainy days with newly received garden seed catalogs. Compare new varieties. An important consideration is improved pest and/or disease resistant seeds over older varieties.

· Pull out and check your notes from last year’s garden. Reorder the varieties that you had success with and any new ones you may want to try.

· Start a pot of shamrocks to have ready by St. Patrick’s Day in March.

· Start pansy plants from seeds indoors. They should be ready to transplant outdoors in mid-March to bloom with spring tulips and daffodils.

· Begin bringing in the pots of bulbs prepared for forcing last fall. Place in a warm

60-65^oF shaded location. Move to a sunny spot when you see green leaves begin to show.

· Begin dormant pruning of fruit trees and grape vines now; try to finish before March.

· Apply horticultural oil sprays to kill over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use this oil on deciduous plants and hardy evergreens, but not on needle-leaved species. Read and follow label directions.

· Spray oils when temperatures are above 40^oF, but not within 24 hours of a freeze (watch the local weather stations for this information). Read and follow all label directions.

· Check with your local county extension office for upcoming Master Gardener

workshops on Gardening in Delaware.

HOUSEPLANTS

2011-12-29T09:26:00.000-05:00

Boy, wasn’t last week beautiful! But, unfortunately, winter is going to be around for another eight weeks yet. If you are getting some winter blahs, why not take advantage of some of the great house plant sales going on in local garden supply stores.

Or just treat yourself and your home to a new houseplant. First of all, before you leave the store with your new plant, be sure to ask the salesperson the name of your new plant so that you can look up care requirements from a house plant book.

The following are some considerations you should think about before and after you purchase a new houseplant: The most important factor in houseplant care is the light requirement. Study the light levels in your home or in the room where the plant will be living. Are you going to be displaying your plant in a sunroom or in hallway? Will the plant be next to a window or in a far corner away from a light source? Are you planning on providing an artificial light source?

Match the plant’s needs to your personal schedule. Certain plants require very little care, while others are very high. In addition, some plants can survive and grow well on an irregular watering schedule. Consider room and furniture dimensions. What size plant do you need? What is the maximum growth and height the plant will reach? Start out with the healthiest plants you can find. Go to a reputable nursery or florist. Examine the plants carefully. Plants should have only a few brown-edged leaves and only a few leaves should have been trimmed.

The plants should be full and bushy, with small spaces between leaves. Large gaps between new leaves can be an indication of over-fertilizing and crowded to induce rapid growth, or that it has spent some time under improper lighting conditions.

Inspect the leaves and stem joints on the plant for any evidence of insects or diseases. Bringing home an infected plant may be hazardous to any plant you already have. Flowering plants should have many buds that are just beginning to open. Plants in full bloom may soon lose much of their loveliness. More importantly, it may be impossible to get the plant to bloom again unless conditions are perfect.

Plants need to adjust to their new surrounding and may even go into a mild shock. Getting the houseplant use to its new home may take several weeks. Pay close attention to the plant’s needs. Try to have similar light conditions. Keep the plant moderately moist during this period, and do not allow it to dry out. To water your new houseplant, water thoroughly each time and discard the excess water from the drainage saucer. Once the plant has adjusted to its new living conditions, try not to move it.

These few points will help you select plants suited to your schedule, environment, and keep your plants healthier longer.

ROSEMARY FOR CHRISTMAS

2011-12-23T10:50:00.001-05:00

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is one of my favorite Christmas plants. This dense, spiky leaf, grayish-green evergreen reminds me of a miniature Christmas tree.

It can be decorated at this time of year to use as a center piece on your dining table.

There are several different cultivars of this herb available such as: Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Albus’ has white flowers; Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Benenden Blue’ has bright blue flowers; Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Roseus’ has a pink flower; and Rosmariunus officinalis ‘Severn Sea’ has brilliant blue flowers.

In Delaware, most cultivars are tender and must be brought in doors when the warm temperatures of summer end. However, there are two cultivars that are hardy; these are ‘Arp’ and ‘Very Oily.’

There are many stories and legends that have been told about the rosemary plant through the centuries. I thought for this holiday season I would share some of these with you.

Rosemary was also known as the Holy Herb and/or Rose of Mary by the Greeks. The Greeks told this legend. One day the Holy family was fleeing from Herod’s soldiers and the weary Virgin Mary needed to rest.

They came upon a grove of fragrant shiny leafed shrubs with white flowers. Mary gently placed her heavenly blue cloak over these rosemary bushes to dry and when it was removed the flowers had turned blue in her honor. This blue is the same color of blossoms on several cultivars of rosemary.

Another story is that a Rosemary plant will not grow any taller than six feet the believed adult height of Jesus Christ. After 33 years, (Christ’s age at the crucifixion) a Rosemary bush will grow in width but not in height.

It is also the herb associated with remembrance, love, and friendship. One tale I read took place in old England. This was that sweethearts would exchange a branch of rosemary when they parted, lest they be forgotten.

In the fable, Sleeping Beauty, rosemary was the herb tea used but failed to awaken the beautiful sleeping princess.

Besides all of these legends and stories associated with rosemary, this is truly one of the best culinary herbs. It is great for seasoning stews, sauces, soups, lamb, chicken, vegetable dishes, and jellies.

To conclude, next time you are thinking about giving a holiday plant to someone special, why not give this unique herb plant that represents love, friendship, loyalty and remembrance. Have a happy and memorable holiday!

FEEDING THE BIRDS IN WINTER

2011-12-19T11:05:00.002-05:00

One of the best gifts I received for the holiday last year was a bird feeder from my nephew, Gordon. It was a gift that gave all winter. I hung it just outside of my kitchen window and, while I did kitchen chores, I could watch a variety of birds coming to feed. Some weeks, I would have to fill the feeder two or three times. Feeding birds in winter is a big responsibility because once you start feeding them, you should continue until warm weather returns and birds can find food in your neighborhood.

The following tips will be a guide for bird feeders and watchers this winter:

Place your bird feeder or feeders near, but not in, trees or shrubs. A cat may use this area to hide in while waiting for a tasty bird on which to snack or dine.
Place in a sheltered area or south side of the home out of harsh winter winds. Strong winds will cause the feeder to move back and forth, scattering and wasting the food.
Place the bird feeder where it is easiest for you to see the birds. Keep in mind that if it’s too close to your house, birds may never come to it.
Choose a bird feeder designed specifically for the food you plan to put in it.
Fill the feeder with only enough feed for several days’ use. Seeds tend to spoil in certain conditions and may be harmful to the birds.
Use a feeder that is constructed to protect the feed in any weather.
Rake the ground under the feeder every week or two to prevent accumulation of spilled seed that may become moldy.
Position the feeder to prevent food raids from unwanted animals like mice and rats.
Place the feeder away from low-hanging branches that squirrels may use in order to have access to the bird feed. Keep in mind, there are commercial squirrel-proof hoods for bird feeders.
Look around your landscape – you may have many natural platforms for feeders, for example, a tree stump, top of a fence post or slat-top rocks.

The following chart will be a guide for the kinds of feed to put out for specific birds:

Cracked Corn -- Cowbirds, red-winged blackbirds, starlings, tree sparrows, song sparrows, purple finch, and pine siskins.

Sunflower seed -- Cardinals, goldfinches, chickadees, nuthatches, blue jays and purple finches.

Suet – Downy and hairy woodpeckers, red-bellied woodpeckers, blue jays, brown creepers, starlings and mocking wrens.

Cut-up apples, bananas, grapes, oranges, raisins and wild fruit – Catbirds, bluebirds and wild brown thrashers.

Breads, cereals and peanut butter – Woodpeckers, nuthatches and chickadees.

While the weather is cold and the natural bird food supply is limited, why not purchase a feeder or refill your present one? Then, you can enjoy the variety of feathered friends that will come and feast in your backyard, too!

If you are looking for a special present for someone, why not consider a bird feeder and a bag of feed? The recipient and the birds will thank you many times.

: Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

DECEMBER GARDEN CALENDER

2011-11-22T11:59:00.000-05:00

First Week

· Collect pinecones, old bird nests, any remaining seed heads, etc. to be used in making wreaths and other holiday decorations.

· Spray seed heads and dried flowers with hair spray to keep them intact.

· Clean and sanitize (mixture of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water can be used) emptied seed flats before storing so that they will be ready when needed in the early spring.

· Make herbal presents like herb vinegars and/or potpourri for the holidays.

· Select your tree early and tag it while visiting your local Christmas tree farm.

· Change the oil and do routine maintenance on your outdoor power equipment, such as rotary tillers and lawn mowers. Remember to recycle this used oil.

Second Week

· Order your 2011 seed catalogs.

· Check stored dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms; if they are sprouting, move to a cooler location. If they appear to be shriveling, rewrap them using a ventilated plastic bag.

If there are signs of molding, change their environment; this is usually a result of moisture conditions.

· Mulch azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias thoroughly after the ground freezes. These acid-loving plants prefer acid-loving materials like oak leaves or pine needles. If you do not have either of these, any mixture of dried leaves will do.

· Scout your landscape for the small, buff or yellowish velvet gypsy moth egg cases attached to trees, stones, walls, logs and other outdoor objects, including outdoor household articles. Pick them off and destroy.

· Feed birds continually throughout the winter once you start feeding them. Birds need feed, water and cover (discarded Christmas trees are great for providing bird shelter).

Third Week

· Prevent fires by placing Christmas trees away from heater vents, fireplaces, television sets and anything else that can cause the needles to dry out. In addition, be sure to keep your tree watered the entire time it is in your home.

· Make evergreen arrangements with branches that have been trimmed from Christmas trees.

· Prune fruit trees anytime this winter. Keep in mind, it is easier on the tree if the temperature is 45^o and above.

Last Week

· Check around trunks of trees and bases of large shrubs for rodent damage.

· Fertilize peach and apple trees anytime after the leaves drop and before spring growth.

· Give special attention to water, light, and feeding requirements of houseplants.

· Recycle your holiday tree; it has several good uses. The branches can be placed over spring flowering bulb beds and/or perennial flower beds to help prevent heaving damage caused by the ground freezing and thawing, and, as mentioned above, placed outside next to a bird feeder, it provides shelter for birds.

· Buy yourself a new houseplant if you are suffering from the end-of-the-year blahs. Because of the light, water and feeding requirements, determine where it is going to be placed before you buy.

Have a happy and healthy holiday season.

Firewood

2011-11-08T16:39:00.002-05:00

November is here and we all have to face the facts that colder temperatures are demanding that we turn on our home heating systems or light our woodstoves and/or fireplaces. At our house, we have had our cut firewood stacked by the hedgerow since spring. Who knows what will crawl out of it when it is warmed by indoor temperatures!

If you also bring in wood to burn in your fireplace or woodstove, you may have noticed a few insects emerging from the wood. They are living in wood or just under the bark where they are over-wintering. As the split wood becomes room temperature, insects are fooled into thinking it is spring. These nuisance insects include wasp carpenter ants, wood roaches, earwigs, powderpost, long-horned and bark beetles. The occasional wasp that is found creeping from or near the stacked wood can be easily killed using a fly swatter or an indoor flying insect spray.

Carpenter ants are predominately black colored and vary in size (from ¼ inch to ¾ inch); they have a very narrow waist. They tunnel into diseased moist wood -- for example, an old stump, fence post or large pieces of wood (like stacked firewood) -- in order to increase their nest size. They are nocturnal creatures, and if seen during the day, they are searching for food or water.

Powderpost, long-horned and bark beetles are usually wood boring while in the larval stage. They live in fresh cut logs or living trees they do not infest dead trees or dry wood. Adults usually enter through the bark crevices, a wound or scar on the tree. You may notice sawdust accumulated around the holes or found on the ground just below small holes in the wood. Powderpost beetles feed only on dead wood. They are brought into the home on infested wood. Adult female beetles lay their eggs in unfinished wood. The hatched larvae or grub tunnel through the wood.

Long-horned beetle larvae are whitish and legless, and can be seen crawling around on stacked firewood. The adult are bullet shaped with long antennae. Adult bark beetles, tunnel directly through the bark to the cell tissue leaving a very characteristic gallery or tunnel. The beetle larvae hatch and feed away from the galleries. Favorite living environments for wood roaches are compost, old plant debris, and piles of wood. They are scavengers and eat decaying plant and animal matter.

Wood roaches are brown colored and only reproduce outdoors. Earwigs are reddish brown colored and a half to one inch long. They have pincher-like forceps (called cerci) at their posterior end. The adults have wings, but do not fly. They, too, are harmless and cannot reproduce indoors. They prefer high moisture conditions and feed on living and dead insects, mosses, lichens and algae found on wood. To manage these pests in the firewood, keep in mind the following practices:

· The sooner the firewood is split, the quicker it dries.

· Cut living trees in autumn or early spring when insects are in the over wintering or inactive stage.

· If possible, keep wood off the ground and covered (without covering, it is likely to become infested). Dry wood is less attractive to pests of firewood.

· Unseasoned wood should not be stored in basements or garages.

· NEVER spray firewood with an insecticide that is going to be burned during the current season with an insecticide.

There is nothing warmer and more relaxing than a wood fire in your woodstove or fireplace on a cold winter day or night. Do not let a few nuisance insects keep you from enjoying this comfort.

Small Farms Tip:

On December 12 and 13, 2011 the Small Farms Program at Delaware State University will be hosting a Profiting From a Few Acres Conference at the Dover Sheraton. Whether you have 1 acre or 1,000 acres this may be a conference for you. There will be sessions on Alternative Uses for Ag Buildings, Opportunities with Dairy Goats, Profiting through Game Birds, Agriculture as a Source of Entertainment, New Beginning Farm Purchase Program, Organic & No-Chemical Weed Control, Building Your Own Web Site, Season Extension and Marketing Alternatives for Animal Fibers, just to name a few. The cost for this two-day conference is $25.00 and includes lunch on both days. Scholarships are available to waive or reduce the registration fee. For more information or to register call 302-857-6462

Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

NOVEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

2011-11-01T12:33:00.001-04:00

First week of November:

· Finish planting spring flowering bulbs.

· Pull up disease-free annuals and add to compost pile along with leaves and leftover garden material.

· Cut back and mulch perennials. This mulch will insulate them from the winter cold and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.

· Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc. Wash away soil, dry, label and place in a bag or box; cover with sphagnum moss, sawdust or perlite. Store in a cool, dry place.

Second week of November:

· Pot amaryllis to have them bloom by winter.

· Drain and bring in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.

· Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.

· Clean up garden and plant cover crop to improve existing soil condition.

· Cut back roses 18-20 in. and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.

Third week of November:

· Fertilize shade trees and peach trees.

· After frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb, cut leaf material down to ground level.

· To prevent winter windburn, thoroughly water all trees and shrubs weekly until the ground freezes.

Final week of November:

· After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut the stems back to ground level and add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.

· Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.

HALLOWEEN PLANTS

2011-10-24T11:22:00.001-04:00

This coming weekend is Halloween and over the years there have been many plants associated with this spooky day. The following article is based on folklore found in many plant books I have read through the years and should not be taken seriously. Historical like witches there are good and bad herbs plants. The good herb plants repel evil and act as a remedy against enchantment or spells and lightning.

The following are some herbs and plant materials associated with Halloween: Ash, Bay, Caraway, Chicory, Oxalis, Elder, Hawthorn, Hazel, Garlic, Rosemary, and Thyme.

· The Mountain (Sorbus aucuparia) and European (S. American) Ash trees are associated with Halloween folklore. In the fall Ash leaves change from green to yellow to red. Also, on the ash tree there are clumps of persistent orange-red berries that provide food for birds. These trees are planted near homes; it is said they protect all who reside within. Europeans believe cut branches brought indoors bless the home in the coming year. A piece of bark from the mountain ash carried in your pocket keeps away evil wishes. Furthermore, a small branch put in the butter churn keeps butter from souring.

· Bay (Laurus nabilis) is planted near homes or either side the entrance to prevent evil spirits from entering. Also, it protects the house from lightning and thunderbolts.

· Caraway (Carum carvi) has magic powers, too. It is believed a few seeds placed in a straying husband’s pocket will bring him back and keep him from being lured away.

· Chicory (Chicorium intybus) is very powerful. Whoever possesses it has the ability to become invisible.

· Oxalis, a four-leafed clover, gives the wearer the power to see fairies. In addition, strawberry and viola tricolor are considered protectants and avert the evil eye.

· European Elder (Sambucus nigra) tree is often used to drive away evil spirits and as a charm against lightning. If one stands under an Elder Tree on Midsummer Eve, he/she will see the King of Fairyland and his entourage.

· Hawthorn (Crataegeus) tree is considered magical and protectant. It protects people and animals from witches, spirits, and thunderstorms. Branches hung on New Year’s Day in farm kitchens ensure bountiful harvest for the coming year.

· Hazel or European filbert (Corylus avellana) nuts used at Halloween reveal to unmarried girls who their future husbands will be. Named for each maiden present, a row of nuts is placed among hot embers. The name of the lucky man is whispered and, if the pairing is a successful one, the nut jumps from the coals.

· Garlic (Allium sativum) is worn and/ or hung in the home to prevent bewitching, dispose of vampires and to avert the evil eye. During the times of the plague, it caught any circulating germs.

· Rosemary (Rosemarius officinalis) has many legends associated with it. Tiny bundles are tied together and hung over the cradles of babies to protect them from bad dreams. Sprigs carried in the hands have the ability to keep away witches and evil.

· Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) has a pleasant legend. It is considered the favorite and cherished herb of fairies. Furthermore, it is believed that if a young maiden places a sprig of rosemary in one shoe and a sprig of thyme in the other, she will have a vision of the man she will marry.

In closing, keep in mind the plant folklore and legends mentioned in this article are to only provide you with a Halloween treat.

OCTOBER GARDENING CALENDER

2011-10-04T18:45:00.000-04:00

First Week of October

· Dig up gladioluses, dahlias, tubers and other tender bulbs.

· Plant budded chrysanthemums, the buds will open once planted to add color to fall landscapes. If you buy plants already in full bloom, they will not last long.

· Check your perennials some may not have survived this years heat and droughts.

· Water evergreens if needed.

· Take a soil sample of your gardens and lawn so that the results are available in time to add fertilizer or lime, which will improve or adjust soil fertility.

· Use shedding needles from pines, yews and arborvitaes as mulch around azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias and andromedas.

· Bring in your houseplants which have been living outdoors all summer. Be sure to inspect for pests before you bring them in.

Second Week of October

· Dig up and pot an herb plant or two from the herb garden. Parsley, chives, sage, thyme or scented geraniums do well all winter, if watered and set in a warm sunny window.

· Rake and add the leaves that are falling from deciduous trees to the compost pile.

· Pick bagworms from the evergreens and shrubs and destroy them. This will abolish the spring hatching of over-wintering eggs.

· Plant shrubs and divide crowded perennials.

· Prune leaves and stems of herbaceous perennials as they turn brown.

Third Week of October

· Mow the lawn continually so that it will not be matted down under heavy snow (if we have another winter like last year).

· Plant spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.). Master Gardeners are having a Bulb Workshop on Friday, Oct. 15, call 302-730-4000 to register.

· Protect broadleaf evergreens from winter damage caused by wind and sun.

· Rake and clean up rose gardens to prevent black spot and other diseases.

· Keep an eye open for reduced prices on end-of-the-season gardening tools and equipment to be used next year or to be given as gifts.

Last Week of October

· Transplant small trees after leaves have fallen.

· Secure vines to their support systems.

· Clean up garden debris and add to the compost pile.

MASTER GARDENER TIP:

Call your local County Extension Office to see what gardening workshops are offered this fall in Sussex County, 302-856-7303 and in Kent County 302-730-4000.

FALL WORKSHOPS SUSSEX COUNTY

2011-10-04T18:37:00.000-04:00

Master Gardener workshops continue through November in Sussex Co. Workshops are free, unless noted, and are in the Carvel Center. To register, contact Tammy Schirmer at 302-856-2585 ext. 544/tammys@udel.edu or register online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/workshopreg.html. On the list are:

Putting Your Garden to Bed – Cherie Dorfman – Tuesday, Oct. 11 at noon.

Garden Information Resources – Master Gardener Panel – Thursday, Oct. 20

at 7 p.m.

Gifts From the Garden – Tracy Mulveny – Tuesday, Nov. 15 at 1 p.m. Cost is

$5 per person. Limited to 25 participants.

FALL WORKSHOPS KENT COUNTY

2011-10-04T18:35:00.000-04:00

Four workshops are on the schedule for Kent Co. Master Gardeners. They are free, except where noted, and will be at the Paradee Center. To register, call 302-730-4000.

Accessible Gardening – Tuesday, Oct. 4 at 1:30 p.m.

Fall and Winter Curb Appeal – Thursday, Oct. 13 at 1:30 p.m.

Preparing for Spring – Thursday, Nov. 3 at 6:30 p.m.

Make and Take a Lovely Fall Wreath Thursday, Nov. 17 from

6-8 p.m. Cost: $5. Class limited to 15.

Mail your registration and payment to

Kent Co. Master Gardeners,

69 Transportation Circle, Dover, DE 19901.

2011-08-31T19:44:00.002-04:00

My mother-in-law has the most beautiful bed of peonies, which are a mass of white and pink blooms every May. When I go to visit, she always has a large bouquet waiting for me to take home and enjoy. The white blooms are so sweetly scented, and once in the house, their fragrance soon fills the living room.

Well, September is the month peonies must be planted and divided in order to maintain their longevity and hardiness. Once they become established in the garden border, they will bloom in May and June and make excellent fragrant cut flowers.

There are two divisions of peonies – garden, or herbaceous varieties, and tree peonies:

· Garden peonies have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall and range from white, yellow, cream, pink, and rose to deep red in color. The five groups – single, semi-double, double, Japanese, and anemone are distinguished by the shape of the petals.

· Tree peonies are shrub-like deciduous plants that reach four or more feet in height and produce many large flowers in May. The colors of the delicate blooms come in yellow, pink, white, rose, crimson, scarlet, apricot, salmon, purple, and peach. The center of the flowers is yellow, pink or red.

Peonies grow from tubers (underground stems). New growth develops from buds or eyes on the tuber. New or immature shoots are bright red, succulent, and easy to damage while mature shoots are dark green and shiny.

Divide and replant peonies only when they become crowded. To do this, carefully dig around and under the plants. As you dig up the clumps, be careful not to break off the root system, especially the tap roots. Wash any soil from the roots and strip off the leaves. Cut the tubers by using a sterile knife. Be sure each section has three to five eyes and a tap root is attached. Replant the tubers immediately.

When buying, look for tubers that have three to five eyes. Those with one or two eyes often rot in the ground while those with more than five eyes may fail to produce large flowers. Select colors that harmonize with your current garden.

Peonies need fertile, slightly acid (pH 6.0) well-drained soil. They do not tolerate wet feet. These plants grow best in full sun, but will tolerate shade for two to three hours each day.

Because peonies remain in the same place for many years, the garden soil needs special preparations. Spade organic matter such as compost, aged cow manure, or peat moss in the soil about two weeks before planting. Add about a handful of bone meal or a commercial fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (such as 5-10-10). Dig a hole approximately 18 inches deep for each tuber. Holes for the plants should be spaced three feet apart. Refill the holes with about half of the soil mixture, leaving the remainder of the soil at the side of the hole until planting time.

Plant a garden peony tuber with the uppermost eye not more than two inches below the soil surface. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly. Then, fill the hole with the remaining soil and press down firmly (do not pack it). To settle the tuber, water again.

When planting a tree peony tuber, fill with four or five inches of soil, covering the graft. You can recognize the graft by the ridging on the stem and the different texture of the bark. The deep planting allows the grafted section to establish its own roots in the soil. Continue to add soil and water in the planting hole, the same way you would for a garden peony.

Mulch garden and tree peonies with straw, peat moss, or evergreen needles during the winter and summer months. In winter, mulching will prevent heaving, which is the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil that pushes the plants out of the soil. During the summer, mulching around the plants helps to keep the soil moist and prevents weed growth.

So, maybe with a little luck, you can have a bouquet of peonies next May to brighten up your indoor living space or to share with a friend.

SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

2011-08-29T13:57:00.001-04:00

First Week of September:

· Start a compost pile.

· Apply lime and fertilizer to your lawn area. It’s a good idea to have a soil test done

to know the correct amount needed.

· Space strawberry runner plants about six-inches apart. Pull out extra plants.

· Harvest vine-ripened vegetables from plants that continue to produce.

· Select a short-day variety tomato plant like “pixie” and start it indoors in a peat pot. When large enough, transplant into a three and one-half inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window in your home.

Tomatoes require six to eight hours of light daily. You will have to keep artificial light on them part of the time. Water and feed them regularly and you should have tomatoes for your Christmas dinner.

Second Week of September:

· Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses, and seed pods to decorate your holiday wreaths.

· Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.

· Dig up and divide roots now if you’re thinking about starting new peonies. You may want to use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, make sure each division has three or four buds (the small pinkish colored buds at the crown of the roots).

When planting your new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface. If you do, the plant will produce foliage, but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

· Select and prepare the site now if you are going to plant or establish a spring flowering bulb bed. Be sure there is good drainage; add three to four pounds of limestone per one hundred square feet and two to three pounds of 5-10-10 garden fertilizer.

We have a fact sheet on Spring Flowering Bulbs. If you would like one, call the Extension Office at #857-6426, #730-4000 or #856-7303.

Third Week of September:

· Plant evergreens and ground covers. To transplant needle-leaf or cone-bearing evergreens, be sure each plant has an adequate rootball.

· Clean up garden debris and add to your compost pile or turn under the vegetation, but not where you have your fall crops growing. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from September 1 through November 1.

· Bring in your Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus, place on a cool porch or cool part of your house, and do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Last Week of September:

· Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will help make weeding much easier next spring.

· Plant your spring bulbs. Depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb, for example, tulips are about five to six inches, four to seven inches for daffodils, three to four inches for hyacinths, and one and one-half to three inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulb’s greatest width.

Don’t wait for frost warnings to bring houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 degrees or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants that are brought in for pests and diseases and for repotting where needed.

MASTER GARDENER TIP:

Call your local County Extension Office to see what gardening workshops are offered this fall.

TOMATO PROBLEMS

2011-08-11T18:56:00.001-04:00

My springs are so busy that I usually do not get my warm season garden area tilled and the tomatoes and peppers planted until the last week of May. Which means those tomatoes will not be ripening until the end of July and into the first of August. Not only are mine ripening, but calls from the public with tomato problems let me know theirs are also ripening. Therefore, I thought a column on tomato problems might help many of you, too.

BACTERIAL SPECK: The fruit and leaves will have many tiny (pinhead size) and slightly raised brown-black specks. If you look closely on the fruit, these specks are bordered in white. On leaves, the border will be yellow colored. This problem is often mis-identified as bacterial spot.

Bacterial speck thrives in temperatures of 65° to 75°F that follow heavy rains. The bacteria overwinter in the soil and may be carried on tomato seed. When the first signs of this disease appear, it is time to control. Use a fungicide spray containing maneb or basic copper sulfate. And, like all fungicide applications, repeat sprays as long as weather conditions are favorable for the disease. Additional means to control this problem are: avoid overhead watering, do not work in wet plants, and do not save seeds from infected fruit.

BLOSSOM END ROT: This is caused by sudden changes in soil moisture or lack of calcium in the plant. It appears as a sunken, dark brown or black leather spot. To reduce this problem, provide a normal supply of moisture and/or lime to the soil to a pH of 6.5-7-0.

HORNWORMS: These fat green or brown worms, up to five inches long with white diagonal stripes, have a red or black “horn” that projects from the rear end. They eat leaves and fruit, leaving only midribs.

Hand pick the worms or use a chemical control to reduce hornworms. If you scout for eggs, look for small, smooth, round and light green-colored single eggs laid on tomato plant leaves.

Remember, upon discovering this pest, if its back is covered with many little white cocoon-like objects, don’t destroy them. These are a result of a beneficial wasp laying her eggs on the hornworm and this worm’s days are numbered.

LIGHT BLIGHT: This is caused by a fungus. Bluish-gray, water-soaked patches appear on leaves and stems. During humid weather, a white downy mold grows on the lower surface of the leaves.

Grayish-green, water-soaked spots appear on the fruit. These turn dark brown, become wrinkled and cork-like. Dying plants have an unpleasant odor. Use a fungicide and remove all plant debris from your garden after harvest. This will help reduce late blight.

FRUIT CRACKS: Fruit cracks occur during rainy periods when temperatures are relatively high (above 90^o), especially when rains follow a long dry period. Also, tomatoes exposed to the sun develop more cracks than those well-covered with foliage.

Lastly, remember to read and follow all label directions.

I hope this article will help you to get to enjoy your first ripe tomatoes of this gardening season.

LAWN CARE

2011-08-08T18:47:00.000-04:00

It has been a very hot, dry summer for growing vegetables and flowers in the landscape. One big part of our landscape is our lawn and the hot, droughty conditions haven’t been idea for growing grass either. Now is the time to evaluate and decide if we need to improve the existing one or establish a new lawn.

In Delaware, the ideal time to establish a new lawn is from August 15 to September 30. This date could be extended a short time if we have a mild fall.

Before planting a new lawn, clear all debris and stones. Use a herbicide such as Roundup^TM or Kleenup^TM to clear all existing plant material. This should be done approximately two weeks prior to your seeding date. Old leaves, weeds, dead grass or thatch should be removed or mixed into the soil thoroughly.

Adequate seedbed preparation is the most important factor in obtaining a successful lawn seeding. Just prior to seeding, level lawn and broadcast lime and fertilizer to area. To determine the amount of lime and/or fertilizer needed, have a soil test done prior to renovation.

Rototill limestone and fertilizer into soil to a depth of four inches. When the soil surface is dry and easily worked, hand-rake to smooth the surface and remove any remaining trash and stones.

The seed used should be mixed thoroughly in a pail or tub, and then divided into several equal quantities. Seed each section of your lawn separately in at least two different directions. This will ensure complete and uniform coverage of seeds to the entire lawn area.

Immediately after seeding, gently brush the surface with a grass rake to increase contact between seed and soil and to improve seed germination. Be careful not to rake too roughly; this may redistribute the seed or bury the seed too deeply.

Mulch the raked seedbed with a light covering of straw or peat moss to maintain soil moisture and to protect the seed from being washed or blown away. Water this thoroughly, and thereafter, water each morning and early evening. If this is not possible, then irrigate the seedbed at least once a day. Always use a fine spray or mist-type nozzle to minimize disturbing the soil or washing the seed away.

It is important to provide the new lawn with adequate moisture until the seed germinates and seedlings have a good start. Remember that more frequent watering will be required in hot or windy conditions.

Stringing the area with brightly colored flags will warn neighbors and family members, but not necessarily pets, to stay off.

If you do not want to establish a new lawn, there are several ways to improve an existing one:

· De-thatch or remove a heavy thatch buildup to improve soil and increase soil moisture. In addition, insects and diseases that find thatch a particularly suitable living environment will be eliminated. This can be done by using a good rake or de-thatching bar on your lawn mower.

· Aerate to reduce lawn compaction. Several terms used for this are “hole punching”, “coring” and “aerating.” Compacted soils restrict absorption of water and nutrients as well as air. To aerate soil, a hollow metal tube 1/4 to 3/4 inch in diameter is pushed into the soil by foot or machine to a depth of three to four inches, and sometimes deeper. Keep in mind, the soils should be moist when this is done.

· Repair bare, dead, or weedy sections of the lawn by re-seeding or replacing them with pieces of sod. Always replace with the same variety of grass as the established lawn. Remember to keep the new patches well watered for several weeks.

For more information on lawn establishment, contact your local Extension Office:

Kent County: Number 857-6426 or #730-4000

Sussex County: Number 856-7303

There is not much we can do about hot, dry or wet weather conditions, which affect our plants. However, we can plan, prepare and re-plant when needed.

TIPS FOR HARVESTING AND DRYING HERBS

2011-08-08T18:43:00.000-04:00

For the many herb gardeners, either novice or experienced, who are growing herbs this summer and are wondering about harvesting and drying, here are some guidelines.

There are several reasons why you should not wait until the last days of summer to think about how and when you will preserve your herbs. For one reason, you will be very busy trying to get them all dried or frozen before the first killing frost. But most importantly, you will have missed the prime harvesting time for most herbs. They should be gathered when they contain the maximum amount of oils for full flavor and fragrance.

Most herbs, for culinary use, are ready to harvest just before flowers appear on the plant. Cutting them early in the season enables continued, successive cuttings from the plant. Harvesting perennial herbs late not only results in a reduction of flavor, but the possibility of plant death as well. These plants need the chance for regrowth in order to survive the winter.

Another caution is to not cut annuals, such as basil, too closely to the ground because the lower foliage is necessary for continuous plant growth. Keep in mind, at the end of the annuals’ growing season, the entire plant can be harvested.

The ideal time of day to harvest herbs is in the early morning on a clear day just as the sun dries the dew from the leaves because the oils in the plants are strongest at this time. Scissors are often the best tool for harvesting fresh herbs.

As soon as the herbs have been cut, waste no time in getting them ready for drying. This practice shortens the drying time and generates better flavor and color.

Probably the most common method of drying herbs is the most picturesque. The mention of herb drying inevitably conjures up images of crispy-dry bunches hanging from a nail in someone’s kitchen. To dry herbs this way, simply gather and tie them in small bunches and hang them in a warm, dark place for about two weeks.

A variation is to put each bunch in a paper bag, then hang up to dry. This method helps prevent the herbs from getting dusty, but will increase drying time by several weeks. This method is excellent for drying seed heads; for example, coriander, caraway, anise and dill. Seed heads should be gathered in the early stages of ripening, just as weeds turn from green to gray or brown. Again, they should be collected in the morning as soon as the dew dries on the leaves.

Another variation of air-drying is to take the herb plants apart and spread the parts on screens to dry. An old window screen in good condition works well. Remember to prop it up to permit the air to circulate freely through the screen. Be sure it is not placed in the direct sun or in a damp area.

The last and fastest drying method is oven drying. Heat oven to 150⁰ or less, and place herbs on sheets of brown paper. Make slits in the paper to allow airflow around the herb foliage. Leave the oven door ajar so the moisture can escape. The herbs will dry in approximately three to six hours. When dried, they should be crispy and easy to crumble. They will then be ready for storage.

AUGUST GARDENING CALENDER

2011-08-08T18:37:00.000-04:00

For the first week of August:

v Order your spring-flowering bulbs.

v Check your garden plants, shrubs, flowers and trees for diseases and insect pests.

v Begin planning and planting your fall vegetables, such as lettuce, radishes, kale, spinach, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and peas.

v Harvest and hang herbs before they go into bloom. Tie in little bunches and hang in a ventilated warm space to cure. After thoroughly dried, put in sealed jars to use in the winter.

Mid-August:

v Apply a second treatment of lawn insecticide for grub control or use milky spore dust, a bacteria that will attack more than 40 species of white grubs. Apply anytime.

v Prepare lawn or lawn areas that are going to be seeded.

v Harvest ripened vegetables. Sweet corn is ready when ears feel full and firm, and the silks have turned brown and dry; cantaloupes are ready to eat when stems slip or separate easily from the fruit.

v Feed roses for the last time.

v Check azaleas, if they are beginning to look pale green to yellow. This is called chloritic. Check soil pH. These acid-loving plants may need to be fed.

v Harvest and hang herbs before they go into bloom.

Late August:

v Grapes that are ripening now perish easily, so keep refrigerated after harvesting.

v Inspect trunks and branches of dogwoods and other trees for injured bark or fine dust pushed from burrows in trunk by borers.

v Fertilize fall vegetable garden plants.

v Harvest and hang herbs before they go into bloom.

v Plant new lawns or reseed bare spots in old lawns. This can be done until Sept. 30 in Delaware. If it’s dry, be sure to water newly seeded lawns every day.

PROTECTING OUR BEES

2011-07-18T14:12:00.001-04:00

Everything is growing nicely in my garden. Every other day, I am in the garden scouting the growing plants for pests and beneficial insects.

While scouting, I usually handpick any bad bugs and destroy them. However, sometimes I find a large population of pests on a specific crop, to which I apply a weak toxic pesticide.

I find valuable beneficial insects on squash and honeybees on other plants in my garden. It is very important to protect these wonderful pollinators.

The following tips may help you protect bees and other benefactors in your garden this growing season:

· Keep in mind all insecticides are toxic to bees and other beneficial insects.

· Make sure a pesticide is really necessary; consider how many bad bugs are on your plants.

· Never apply pesticides when flowers on vegetables are in full bloom. This is when bees are most likely visiting the flowers.

· Apply insecticide in late afternoon or evening when bees are not active.

· Never apply insecticide directly on the blossoms or on sweet corn tassel.

· Try to use a bacterial or alternative insect control whenever possible.

· Do not apply pesticides when it is windy—the chemical could drift.

· Be sure to keep sprays from water that may collect in mud puddles, bird baths, depressions in black plastic mulch or any place dew collects. Bees are industrious in finding any drinking water on their own.

· Try watering your garden about 15 minutes or so before applying pesticides; hopefully, this will discourage bee activity while chemicals are being applied.

To conclude, remembering these helpful tips or hints may help protect bees and other beneficial insects from toxic pesticides while they are busy working in our flower and vegetable plants this summer.

By Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

JULY GARDENING CALENDER

2011-07-11T08:41:00.000-04:00

To ensure a bountiful harvest, the conscientious gardener should follow these guidelines during the month of July.

The First Week of July:

¨ Control the weeds in vegetable and flower gardens.

¨ Feed roses.

¨ Watch for mites on roses, shrubs, trees, and ground covers.

¨ Control Japanese beetles on roses, crepe myrtle, grapes, and other host plants. Keep in mind, baited traps attract Japanese beetles, so hang them away from the plant you want to protect.

¨ Harvest and hang herbs before they go to bloom. Tie in little bunches and hang in a ventilated warm space to cure. After drying thoroughly, put in sealed jars for winter’s use.

¨ Take cuttings from shrubs.

The Second Week of July:

¨ Pinch back chrysanthemums for the last time.

¨ Remove faded blossoms from annuals and perennials.

¨ Deadhead rhododendrons to increase next year’s flowers. Remember to only remove spent flower heads. Do not damage newly expanded leaves.

¨ Keep all newly planted trees and shrubs watered; soak thoroughly once a week, either mornings or early evenings.

¨ Increase the mowing height on your lawn mower during dry, hot summer days.

¨ Prepare to harvest onions. When seedpods start to form, turn tops down and allow another two weeks for the onions to ripen before harvesting. Dry harvested onions in the shade before storing.

¨ Harvest and hang herbs before they flower.

¨ Check vegetables for pests and diseases.

The Third Week of July:

¨ Remove faded blossoms on annuals and perennials.

¨ Stake tall perennials.

¨ Check tomatoes for late blight and fruit for horn worms. Treat with a product labeled for this. Hand pick and destroy horn worms.

¨ Water shrubs and trees planted this year if necessary.

¨ Control weeds in vegetable and flower gardens.

¨ Harvest vine-ripened fruits.

¨ Harvest and hang herbs.

The Final Week of July:

¨ Visit the Delaware State Fair Master Gardener Booth.

¨ Continue efforts to control Japanese beetles and other garden pests.

¨ Divide bearded iris when clumps are too large.

¨ Stake perennials.

¨ Continue watering trees and plants as necessary in dry weather. Conserve water by using soaker hoses or trickle irrigation.

¨ Harvest home-grown produce.

GARDEN PEST CALENDER

2011-06-25T17:33:00.002-04:00

Garden Pest scouting calendar to help you know when to look for common pests before they become a problem. Keep in mind the times are approximate. Pest emergence also depends on weather temperatures and conditions.

GENERAL PESTS, APPROXIMATE TIME TO CHECK FOR TREATMENT

Bagworm	Late May – Early June
Scale	Early March – April Female eggs (Adult)	May – Early June (Crawler
Borer	Mid-May to Mid-June (Larvae)
Aphid	Early May to September Adult and Nymph
Whitefly	Early May to September (Adult)
Spider Mites	March – April (Egg)	May to September (Adult)
Thrips	May to June (Adult)
White Grubs	Mid-April – Mid-June (Larvae)	Late June – Mid-August (Adult)	Mid-August – Late September (Larvae)
Tent Caterpillars	Early-April and Mid-May (Larvae)
Japanese Beetle	Mid-April – Mid-June (Larvae)	Late-June – Mid-August (Adult)	Mid-August – Late September (Larvae)
Leafhoppers	Mid-April – Early June (Adult and Nymph)
Cutworm	Mid-April – Early June (Larvae)
Lacebug	Early May – September (Adult)
Caterpillars	May to September (Larvae)
Leafminer	Early Spring (Egg)	April – June (Larvae)	Autumn (Egg)
Nantucket Pine Tip Moth	Early April – August (Larvae)
European Pine Shoot Moth	April (Larvae)	Mid-June (Larvae)

For more information on any of these pest call your local Extension Office. 302 730 4000

Maggie L. Moor-Orth, Delaware Cooperative Extension,Delaware State University

KENT COUNTY SUMMER WORKSHOPS

2011-06-25T12:31:00.001-04:00

The summer series of Kent Co. Master Gardener workshops will be at the Paradee Center

and will be free, unless otherwise noted. On the schedule:

Pesky Critters and Insects – Thursday, June 30 at 6:30 p.m.

Make Your Own Garden Art – Learn to make hypertufa leaves.Monday, July 11 at 12 noon at Wendy Aycoth’s home at 3651 Killens Pond Rd., Harrington, DE.Rain date: Tuesday, July 12. Cost: $10.Upon registration, you will be mailed a list of supplies to bring with you. Wear old clothes.

The Fall Garden – Thursday, Aug. 4 at 6:30 p.m.

More Than a Pressed Flower – Wednesday, Aug. 10 at 6:30 p.m.

Canning 101 – Tuesday, Aug. 30 at 6:30 p.m. Cost: $5.

Mail your payments toUniversity of Delaware, Kent Co. Cooperative Extension,Master Gardener Workshops,

69 Transportation Circle, Dover, DE 19901

2011-06-11T13:13:00.002-04:00

During the month of May and early June, many of the Farmers Markets and on Farm markets throughout the state of Delaware will be opening, and farmers will be bringing their fresh produce for many of us to purchase. How lucky we are, because meeting and getting to know our farmers means we know our food. Buying local ensures we have really fresh food and a great way to keep our small farmers in business. It is important to remember that vegetables are usually at their best quality and price at the peak of their season. Purchasing produce when in season also ensures its freshness. Always check the characteristic signs of freshness: crispness, uniform color, firmness, blemish free and dryness. The difference in these qualities means the difference in price and quality grades furnished by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). Equally important to remember is that vegetables grow in a great variety and provide vitamins and minerals.

Because fresh vegetables have individual characteristics and values, there are no set rules for buying them. Personal experience is probably the best teacher. However, the following list is designed as a handy reference when purchasing certain vegetables:

Beans (Snap): Look for fresh, bright appearance with good color. Purchase young, tender beans with pods that are firm and crisp. Thick, tough fibrous pods indicate over-maturity.

Beets: Should be firm with a deep red color, and have a round taproot. In most cases beets are sold in a bunch with tops attached. The condition of the tops is a good judge of their freshness. Avoid wilted and flabby beets.

Broccoli: Look for a compact cluster of flowers that is firm, green and sometimes has a purplish cast. Avoid yellow-opened buds or wilted clusters.

Carrots: Should be well-colored, firm, well-formed and smooth. The tops if attached, should be fresh and have a good green color.

Corn: Pick ears that are well covered with plump, but not too mature kernels. Husks should be green and the silk-ends should be free of decay or worm damage.

Cucumbers: Look for a completely firm, well-developed good green-colored fruit. Avoid overgrown, large-in-diameter, withered and dull green-colored cucumbers.

Peppers: Look for peppers with a deep characteristic color (peppers come in a variety of colors like: purple, green, yellow, white, orange and red), glossy sheen, firm-walled, and relatively heavy weight. Avoid a pepper that is wilted or soft.

Potatoes: Potatoes should be firm, smooth, free of blemishes and sprouts, free of the green discoloration under the skin . Avoid potatoes with large cuts, or that are shriveled, bruised and/or decayed.

Squash (summer): Look for somewhat young, small, firm, glossy , blemish and pit-free skin, and tender fruit.

Tomatoes: Look for a smooth, firm (but not hard), well ripened fruit, with a deep color, and reasonably blemish free.

Remember, Delaware vegetable producers will be harvesting freshly grown products soon. Therefore, buy when vegetables are in season; the prices will be more reasonable.

Buy only what you can eat or store for two to five days (root vegetables can be stored longer). Handle produce carefully because vegetables bruise easily. At the point of sale, you are the best judge of vegetable quality.

Enjoy Delaware’s best and remember: Know your farm; you’ll know your food. You can find a list of local Delaware Farmers Markets on the Delaware Department of Agriculture’s website at http://dda.delaware.gov/marketing/DE_FRMVENS.shtml.

BUTTERFLY/MOTH FACTS

2011-05-27T12:40:00.002-04:00

I thought you may want to know more about butterflies and moths that visit your landscapes. The following are some butterfly and/or moth facts:

{ They both belong to the Lepidoptera (Scale winged) family

{ There are 20,000 different butterfly families and more than 240,000 moth families. Most live in the tropical rainforest

{ Both have a complete or 4-stage metamorphosis (when they move through a life stage change they look different than when they become an adult)

{ Adults have sucking mouth parts

{ They have compound eyes (hundreds of lenses that each focuses on a small area of the surrounding environment)

{ The proboscis is a long, straw-like tube that unrolls from the head when the butterfly’s feet land on the flower surface to eat or that sits on water for drinking

{ The antennae extend out of the front side of the head between the eyes. The insect uses these as a nose, for mating and for balancing while flying

{ In the immature or larval stage, they have chewing mouth parts (they do not bite, but hairs on some may sting)

{ They have six segmented legs

{ They have four wings which are composed of two membrane layers supported by tubular veins and covered by thousands of colorful scales (moth’s are thicker, making them look furry)

{ Colors are for attracting mates (males are usually brighter), warning predators or providing camouflage. Birds, bats, spiders, dragonflies, praying mantis, and mice love to eat butterflies and moths

{ The bright yellow and black, orange, or red colors tell other predators that they may bite, sting or taste bad. Their colors look like colors on less edible species

{ Butterflies usually lay one egg at a time on the specific host plant leaves and/or stems (coating them with an adhesive that fastens them to the leaf) – they hatch about five days later

{ Eggs from different butterflies have their own unique shape and color

{ At hatching, caterpillars eat their egg shell and then eat lots and lots of leaves from the host plant

{ After weeks of eating and growing, the caterpillar leaves the host plant and searches for a hiding place (bush, tall grass, piles of leaves or sticks, under siding on homes)

{ Inside the chrysalis, the larva changes into a butterfly – which takes only a few weeks

{ After the adult butterfly emerges, it looks for another butterfly to mate with

{ After mating, the female lays her eggs

{ Adult butterflies only live for about two weeks

{ When cold weather arrives some butterflies migrate to warmer areas (the Monarch migrates to only 12 mountaintop sites in Mexico)

I hope you find these facts as interesting as I did. And the next time you have butterflies and moths visiting your flowers, you may want to pay closer attention to these very interesting insects.

JUNE GARDENING CALENDER

2011-05-27T12:34:00.001-04:00

For the first week of June:

Check your bedding plants; remove old flower heads to prolong the blooming period. Also, pinch mums for bushier plants.
Make another planting of vegetables, such as sweet corn and snap beans.
Thin out vegetable plantings, for instance, beets and lettuce.
Feed your roses every month until early August with ¼ cup of 10-10-10 per plant.
A second pruning of new growth on your evergreens may be made to maintain shape and size.
Continue your fruit tree sprays as scheduled.

For the second week of June:

Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming is finished.
Spray your mimosa and honey locust for web worms. Look for small clumps of leaves tied together with silk threads scattered over the tree. Upon closer examination, the upper surface of the leaves are skeletonized. The leaves turn brown and die, which will make the tree look as if it has been scorched by a fire.
Take care of your newly planted trees and shrubs. They should receive a thorough soaking each week. Mulch to conserve moisture.

For the third week of June:

Control aphids and other pests on vegetables by removing, spraying or washing.
Place cages or stakes to support growing tomato plants. Cages or trellises work well for growing cucumbers, too.
Be careful trimming grass around young trees and shrubs when using weed eaters. The young tender bark on these plants can be broken easily, resulting in injury to the water-transporting tissue and creating openings for insects and disease to enter.

For the fourth week of June:

Continue spraying your roses and fruit trees.
Thin out flowers where they are growing too close together.
Check your ornamentals for scale insects; these need to be treated, if present.
Mid to late June is a great time to start new plants from soft wood cuttings of shrubs, such as azalea, spirea, boxwood, camellia, hydrangea, etc.
Mow and fertilize strawberries after fruiting.

SUSSEX COUNTY WORKSHOPS

2011-05-05T10:35:00.002-04:00

Workshops through June in the winter-spring series will be presented by Sussex Co. Master Gardeners. The workshops are free and are at the Carvel Center. Please contact Tammy Schirmer to register at 302-856-2585 ext. 544/tammys@udel.edu or register online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/workshopreg.html. On the list are:

Master Gardener Panel – Thursday, May 12 at 1 p.m.

Accessible Gardening – Bob Williams – Thursday, June 9 at 10 a.m. in the Carvel Center and in the Demonstration Garden, weather permitting.

Hostas – Vickie Thompson – Thursday, June 16 at 7 p.m.

2011-05-05T10:21:00.001-04:00

The County Gardener

By: Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

If you are like me and don’t get around to plant your vegetable garden until May 15^th, you may want to consider trying companion planting this year.

Basically, companion planting is the practice of placing plants close to each other so that they may help each plant grow better. Gardeners who practice companion planting do this more as a tradition, but in recent years, there have been studies done on this subject. Companion plants can be grown in several ways:

1. Intercropping, which is growing companion plants to attract or repel bugs between plants or in rows neighboring plants. It is also done to make better use of soil nutrients. Some examples are:

· Planting chives or garlic between rows of peas or lettuce is thought to help control aphids.· Marigolds planted in the same row to grow between hills of cucumbers, squashes, or melons should help reduce the cucumber beetle.· The roots of the marigold also produce and give off a chemical that kills soil nematodes that attack potatoes, strawberries, roses and various bulbs.

· Nasturtiums also help control the cucumber beetle when interplanted with cucumbers.

· Peanuts planted in a neighboring row with corn or squash makes use of soil nutrients.

· Chives grown between roses should help reduce the occurrence of aphids.

· Tansy herbs planted between cabbage rows are believed to help control cabbageworms and cutworms. It is also known that growing tansy around door openings helps keep ants out of the house.

· Strips of clover or alfalfa between rows of corn make use of soil nutrients.

2. As border and barrier plants, your companion plants are grown along one or more boundaries or edges in your garden to attract, create a home and breeding space for, and to feed beneficial insects “good bugs” or to repel pests “bad bugs.” Some examples of these are:

· Prostrate rosemary planted around flowerbeds helps keep slugs and snails from causing damage to your flowers.

· Nectar-producing flowering herbs and flower plants (summer savory, nasturtiums, marigold, and basil to name a few) attract and support beneficial activities.

It is important to have a variety of plants or one variety that will bloom all growing season long to ensure a steady supply of pollen for the beneficial insects to eat.

If you would like more information on companion planting, there are many books available; for example, Carrots Love Tomatoes, Roses Love Garlic, or Sleeping with a Sunflower. All three of these are written by Louise Riotte. You may also try Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening.

When you finally get into the soil and plant, don’t forget to do a drawing of your garden, complete with names of companion plants. Leave room in the margins to jot down notes on the effectiveness of the companion plants during the growing season, such as, did they attract beneficial insects or did they repel any pests? This will help you in planning next year’s garden by knowing where to move or rotate the crops.

Lastly, if this is the first time you are trying companion planting in your garden, the more information you have and learn will help you decide if you want to join the many other companion planting gardeners.

MAY GARDEN CALENDER

2011-05-05T10:17:00.002-04:00

For the first week of May:

v Prune your spring flowering shrubs (lilacs, forsythias, spireas, etc.) after they have finished blooming. Actually, you want to thin these out by removing up to one-third of the older branches at or near ground level.

v Plant vegetables such as snap beans, tomato plants, sweet corn, summer squash, cucumbers and a second crop of radishes.

v Check your trees, especially wild cherry, for tent caterpillars. Remove and destroy tents—they look like a white cotton candy mass on branches.

For the second week of May:

v Continue your fruit tree spray schedule to control disease and pest problems.

v Keep newly planted trees and shrubs watered (unless it’s a rainy month). Do not let the soil dry out.

v Plant gladiolus, dahlias and other summer bulbs.

For the third week of May:

v Stay out of your garden when plant foliage is wet. Walking through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.

v Spray roses regularly (every 10 days, using a fungicide and insecticide). Read and follow all label directions.

v Closely examine your ornamental plantings for disease and pests. Check your dogwoods for borers; boxwood, holly and birch for leaf miners; evergreens for spider mites and aphids.

For the fourth week to end of May:

v Mulch flowers, established vegetables and ever green shrubs. Grass clippings are great and easier to handle if allowed to dry first. Remember, never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with an herbicide.

v Allow leaves on tulips and daffodils to mature; do not cut off until brown. Fill in spaces in your flower beds with annuals.

v Pinch annuals when 4-6 inches high to promote bushy growth, such as zinnias, petunias and salvia.

ANNUAL PLANT SALE

2011-04-06T12:28:00.002-04:00

2011 Kent Co. Master Gardener Scholarship Plant Sale at the Delaware State University greenhouse will be on Saturday, April 30 from 8 a.m. to 12 noon.

“A plant-a-holic’s dream sale,” will offer annuals, perennials, herbs, shrubs, vegetables and native plants.

Sussex County Master Gardeners Spring Workshops

2011-04-01T21:29:00.000-04:00

Workshops through June in the winter-spring series will be presented by Sussex Co. Master Gardeners. The workshops are free, except where noted, and are at the Carvel Center, except where noted. Please contact Tammy Schirmer to register at 302-856-2585 ext. 544/tammys@udel.edu or register online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/workshopreg.html. On the list are:

Gardening on the Cheap – Miguel Pirez-Fabar – Thursday, April 7 at 11 a.m.

Native Plants – Brent Marsh – Thursday, April 14 at 7 p.m.

Water Wise Container Gardening – Marjorie Lewis – Thursday, May 5 at 11 a.m. New Gardener in Delaware? – Master Gardener Panel – Thursday, May 12 at 1 p.m.

Accessible Gardening – Bob Williams – Thursday, June 9 at 10 a.m. in the Carvel Center and in the Demonstration Garden, weather permitting.

Hostas – Vickie Thompson – Thursday, June 16 at 7 p.m.

FRUITS AND VEGETABLE FACTS

2011-04-01T12:41:00.001-04:00

March was a great month for gardeners and farmers; the week of March 14, was National Agriculture week, March 24, was National Agriculture Teacher Day and March 20, was the first day of spring. But my garden soil is too wet to start my gardening, so I thought I would share some interesting Agriculture facts before my growing season begins. The following are some fun facts about the fruits and vegetables we eat:

· Most of us snack on popcorn, but did you know the average American eats about 68 quarts a year.

· What is the nutritional value of popcorn? Like other cereal grains, it’s primary function is to provide the body with heat and energy

· Pasta is one of America’s favorite foods, last year 1.3 million pounds of pasta were sold in American grocery stores.

· America’s first large pasta factory was built in Brooklyn, New York in 1848 by a Frenchman who would spread out his spaghetti strands on the roof to dry in the sunshine.

· Pizza! Did you know that each man, woman, and child in America eats an average of 46 slices (23 pounds) of pizza a year.

· There are approximately 61,269 pizzerias in the United States and about 3 billion pizzas are sold in the U.S. each year.

· We should all eat colored fruits and vegetables, did you know the plant pigment that gives fruits and vegetables that yellow/orange color contain Beta-carotene. The vivid orange color in Carrots is Beta-Carotene.

· Our bodies convert Beta-Carotene into Vitamin A which is important for good eyesight, and helps your body fight infection, and keeps your skin and hair healthy.

· Did you know that in the United States, lettuce is the second most popular fresh vegetable and Americans eat about 30 pounds of lettuce every year?

· The darker green varieties of lettuce are more nutritional then the light green varieties.

· Almost all lettuce is packed right in the field.

· Another green vegetable that we are eating more of is Broccoli. In 1970, consumption of broccoli was only a half a pound per person. Today, the average person eats four and one half pounds a year.

· Asparagus is a member of the Lily family and related to onions, leeks and garlic.

· California grows about70% of all the asparagus grown in the United States.

· Apples are members of the rose family and Washington State grows the most apples in the United States.

· Fresh apples float because 25% of their volume is air.

· There are more than 7,000 varieties of apples grown in the world.

· Blueberries are the second most popular berry in the United States. And are a good source of Vitamin C and fiber.

· Peaches are another source of Vitamin C, and are the third most popular fruit grown in America.

· The United States provides about one-fourth (25%) of the world’s total supply of fresh peaches.

· Michigan and New Jersey produce 66% of all the blueberries in the United States, followed by North Carolina, Oregon and Washington. We harvest over 200 million pounds of Blueberries every year in North America.

· One of my favorite fruits is the tart cherry; I go to a local farmers market and pick a big basket every June. There are about 7,000 cherries on an average tart cherry tree (depending on age of tree and spring weather conditions.) We all love Cherry pie, did you know it only takes 250 cherries to make a cherry pie.

I hope you enjoyed reading about some of our most popular fruits and vegetable we eat weekly. And with April here and warmer weather soon approaching you will be going to your gardens to harvest fresh vegetables. Or traveling to your local farmers markets to buy locally grown and Delaware produce.

LATE WINTER PRUNING

2011-03-18T13:16:00.001-04:00

Late winter—when deciduous plants are dormant—is the ideal time to prune summer and fall-blooming shrubs. Pruning is best at this time because the bare branches allow you to achieve the desired effect and look and the plant will suffer less shock and damage to the leafless plants.

There are many misconceptions about pruning, for example: plants will die if pruned at the wrong time of year (plants may be injured, but seldom die as a result of poorly-timed pruning); and all cut surfaces must be treated with a tree paint or tree sealer (there is conflicting evidence regarding this long held belief, and if pruned correctly, this is no longer needed).

Pruning is the selective removal of parts of a plant for one or more purposes. Following are several reasons to prune:

To control growth and/or to direct growth for a special effect
As a result of transplant injury
To rejuvenate or restore
To repair damage
To promote flowering and fruit production and size
To promote plant health

What and how much should you prune? In most cases, you should never prune more than one-third of the top growth of a shrub (or tree). The list of what to prune includes:

Dead, diseased and damaged branches
Vertical shoots from branches (water sprouts)
The unwanted shoots growing from the base of the tree or shrub (suckers)
Branches that are crossing
Long, awkward limbs
Branches that are dangling
Insect and/or borer insect infested wood
Spent flowers (deadheading)
To renovate multi-stemmed shrubs, it may be necessary to prune the plant to ground level.

There are several pruning techniques used to accomplish different tasks. Pinching is used to promote the development of many branches. This technique is used to promote bush growth.

Heading back is the specific shortening of branches and is usually used in combination with thinning to give the best effect.

Thinning is the removal of the entire stem at the point of origin and stimulates new growth at this point. It removes old unproductive stems, it allows light to reach the center of the plant, and it improves air circulation within the plant.

Shearing is pruning to create an even-shaped surface, on hedges, topiary, etc. If you grow rhododendron, you should be familiar with deadheading (no, it’s not about the Grateful Dead).

Removing the old blooms allows the plant to direct its energy into growth rather than seed production. Several commonly grown summer flowering shrubs, which should be pruned in late winter before spring begins, include:

Glossy abelia (Abelia x grandiflora) flowers are formed on wood from the previous season. To prune, pinch the most vigorous new growth in spring and remove one-third of the oldest growth.
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) flowers on the new growth. Prune back to the ground.
Sweet shrub or Carolina Allspice (Calycanthus floridus) is a multi-stemmed shrub. Trim and thin to shape. During the growing season, pinch it back to keep this shrub small.
Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum) should have the old wood removed at the ground level from time to time. Major pruning should be done in late winter; however, to maintain shape, pruning can be done anytime.
In contrast, spring blooming shrubs such as lilac, sweet mock orange, hydrangea, forsythia, spirea should be pruned after flowering has finished in late spring.
Lastly, before pruning your landscape shrub, know the correct identification and determine when it will bloom. If you are not sure of the name and flowering time, allow it to grow and make note when it blooms during the growing season, then prune it next year at the proper time.

KENT MASTER GARDENERS SPRING 2011 WORKSHOPS

2011-03-16T18:21:00.008-04:00

Sow it. Grow it!

Tuesday, March 22 6:30 p.m.

Everyone can be successful when growing a vegetable garden.

We will give you some helpful tips and cover a variety of planting methods

to help you grow your most successful garden ever!

The Nitty Gritty of Soil and the Value of Compost

Thursday, March 31 6:30 p.m.

A garden needs good soil and what better than to use your kitchen and yard waste

as a source of organic matter to improve your soil. In this workshop, you will learn what

garden soil is composed of, how to improve the quality of your soil and different approaches

to composting. This knowledge is so much fun that even the kids will enjoy composting!

All supplies and step-by-step handouts will be provided. To help understand your soil,

please bring two cups of garden soil in a one quart jar with a screw on lid.

Children are welcome to attend with their parents.

Tomato Growing School

Wednesday, April 6 6:30 p.m.

Please join us to go deeper into the science and art of the most popular

and nutritious garden vine. Starting with seed germination thru the proper

way to remove fruit from the vine, we will give you practical guidance

and inside tips. We'll discuss varieties, fertilizers and problem solving.

All tomato aficionados should save this date.

Container Vegetable Gardening

Thursday, April 14 6:30 p.m.

Don't you just love the taste of just picked tomatoes and other vegetables! If you want to

grow vegetables, but your space is limited, consider growing them in containers.

This workshop will show you how.

Beauty and the Beets

The Art of the Potager

Tuesday, May 3 1:30 p.m.

This workshop will explore the history and design elements of this

ancient art of combining vegetables and flower gardening in artistic designs.

Curb Appeal Containers

Tuesday, May 31 1:30 p.m.

Front porch containers give your home curb appeal. Set some great ideas

on how to make lovely containers,. add to the appearance of your home.

You must pre-register by calling
(302) 730-4000

All classes are free and will be held at the
University of Delaware,Cooperative Extension,
Paradee Center, 69 Transportation Circle,Dover.
We are located just south of the Delaware Dept of Transportation on Bay Road (Rt. 113).
Please call if you need directions or have special needs

MARCH GARDENING CALENDER

2011-03-14T15:51:00.002-04:00

For the first half of March:

Finish pruning shrubs and ornamental trees, except spring flowering shrubs before growth starts. Prune spring flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, etc.) as soon as they finish flowering.
To prevent the infection of fungal spores and bacteria into the plant as a result of fresh cuts, do not prune in damp or wet weather.
If soil is dry enough, begin primary soil tillage.
If weeds are beginning to grow in flower bulb beds, pull them by hand to prevent disturbing the bulbs and roots.
Spray home fruit trees (apples and pears) with dormant oil before buds swell and when temperatures are not likely to drop below 40 deg. for 24 hrs.
Fertilize trees, roses, shrubs and evergreens.

For the second half of March:

Plant cool-season crops (peas, lettuce, cabbage, onions, kale, broccoli, radishes and turnips), if weather permits.
Harden off young tender plants, even hardy varieties, before transplanting in the garden to reduce the chance of frost damage. Place them outdoors in a protected spot from the cool spring winds. Gradually reduce water and temperature to allow plants to toughen up so they will be able to tolerate their new living environment.
If a pre-emergent weed control is going to be used on the lawn, apply it now. Read and follow all label directions.
Leave mulch over strawberries until the plants begin to grow. At that time, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to develop in the light.
Prune hedges before new growth begins.
Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with acid-type fertilizer.

A GOOD READ

2010-11-30T14:23:00.004-05:00

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Here is a list of books recommended by Kent and Sussex Master Gardeners. Great for winter reading and garden planning

Mike McGrath’s Book of Compost (Sterling Publishers, 2006).

Easy Garden Projects to Make, Build and Grow: 200 Do-It-Yourself Ideas to Help You Grow Your Best Garden Ever, edited by Barbara Pleasant and the Editors of Yankee Magazine (Rodale Books, 2006).

Hothouse Flower and the Nine Plants of Desire by Margot Berwin (Pantheon Books, 2009).

Weeds of the Northern U.S. and Canada: A Guide for Identification by France Royer and Richard Dickinson (University of Alberta Press, 1999).

The New Oxford Book of Food Plants, 2^nd Edition (Oxford University Press, 2009).

Wildflowers: A Guide to Growing and Propagating Native Flowers of North America by William Cullina (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2000).

“English Garden Mysteries” series by Anthony Eglin includes The Blue Rose, The Water Lily Cross and The Trail of the Wild Rose (Minotaur Books).

Gardening for a Lifetime: How to Garden Wiser as You Grow Older by Sydney Eddison (Timber Press, 2010).

The Nonstop Garden: A Step-by-Step Guide to Smart Plant Choices and Four-Season Designs by Stephanie Cohen and Jennifer Benner (Timber Press, 2010).

DECEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

2010-11-30T14:16:00.000-05:00

First week in December:

ü Spray seed heads and dried flowers with hair spray to keep them intact.

ü The holidays are just about three weeks away, and there is still time to make herbal presents such as herbal vinegars and potpourri.

Second Week:

ü Order your 2011 seed catalogs.

ü Check stored dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms; if sprouting, move to a cooler location. If they appear to be shriveling, rewrap them using a ventilated plastic bag. If there are signs of molding, change their environment; this is usually a result of moisture.

ü Scout your landscape for the small, buff or yellowish velvet gypsy moth egg cases attached to trees, stones, walls, logs and other outdoor objects, including outdoor household articles. Pick off and destroy them.

Third Week:

ü Prune fruit trees anytime this winter. Keep in mind, it is easier on the tree if the temperature is 45 deg. and above.

Final Week:

ü Fertilize peach and apple trees anytime after the leaves drop and before spring growth.

HOW TO OVERWINTER POTTED PERENNIALS

2010-11-22T09:00:00.002-05:00

At one time annuals were the majority, if not the only type, of plant material being used in containers. Now everything from perennials to small trees and shrubs are commonly being used. And while these perennials can be treated like annuals and replaced the next season, many gardeners can't bear the thought of having something die that has the potential of coming back. Because of this, gardeners now have to consider the best way to overwinter these pots so they can have these plants survive the winter and come back next spring.

Perennials in pots need protection because their root system is basically above ground in a container, This poses problems because the root system is now subject to extreme cold injury.

If these same perennials were planted in the ground, the roots would have the benefit of the soil to help insulate and protect the roots from potential cold injury that can kill roots leading to a good number of the plants not coming back in the spring. Above ground, that protective root insulation disappears, making the roots vulnerable to extreme winter temperatures.

What can a gardener do to protect that investment in perennial plant material?

There are several ways to provide needed protection.

With any container that you are considering to use, make sure the plant material in the container is dormant, Wait for temperatures to drop to the twenties for several nights and make sure the soil in the container is moist. Plants in moist soil tend to overwinter better that those where the soil is dry. Now you can bed them down for the winter.

If the pots are small, and if you have garden space, dig a hole in the garden large enough to accommodate the pot up to the rim. Place the pot in the hole and backfill the hole with soil.

Cover the pot with a thick layer of mulch such as straw or hardwood leaves.

If you don't want to dig holes, gather up your pots and group them together on an inside corner of a building, preferably on the east or north side. Once grouped, mulch them with straw or hardwood leaves.

The last way to help protect your containers is to move them into an unheated building such as a garage or shed where temperatures are slightly above freezing all winter.

This inside storage will protect them. When using inside storage make sure to check on the pots occasionally as they may dry out. If so, apply just a little bit of water to moisten the soil slightly.

Whichever method you choose, leave the plants protected until spring weather conditions moderate and they can be safely moved back into the garden.

University of Illinois Extension Service

NOVEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

2010-11-05T12:33:00.000-04:00

First week in November:
Finish planting spring flowering bulbs.
Cut back and mulch perennials. This mulch will insulate them from the winter cold, and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.
 Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc. Wash away soil, dry, label and place in a bag or box; cover with sphagnum, moss, sawdust or perlite. Store in a cool, dry place.

Second Week:
 Drain and take in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.
 Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.
 Prevent mice and rabbits from damaging young trees by wrapping the base of the trunk 18 in. high with screening.
 Cut back roses 18-20 in. and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.

Third Week:
 Fertilize shade trees and peach trees.
 After frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables, such as asparagus and rhubarb, cut leaf materials down to ground level.
 Mulch evergreens.
 To prevent winter windburn, thoroughly water all trees and shrubs weekly until the ground freezes.

Final Week:
 After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut the stems back to ground level and add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.
 After leaves have fallen, go into the woods and collect grapevines for making wreaths. While in the woods, collect nuts, old bird nests and pine cones to be used for decorating.
 Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.

LEAF GALLS ON WILLOW OAK

2010-11-05T12:30:00.001-04:00

Galls can be unsightly, but rarely harm the plant. There are different types of galls caused by fungus, bacteria or insects. If you don't like the look of the galls, and the plants are small enough, cut out the infected section. If heavily infested, contact the Cooperative Extension office to determine type of gall and how to treat.

OCTOBER GARDENING CALENDER

2010-10-11T01:59:00.000-04:00

First week in October:
 Dig dahlias, gladiolus, tubers and other tender bulbs.
 Plant blooming chrysanthemums to add color to fall landscapes.
 Water evergreens if needed.
 Take a soil sample of the gardens, so that the results are available in time to add fertilizer or lime that will improve or adjust soil fertility.
 Consider using shredded white pine needles as mulch around azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias and andromedas.

Second Week:
 Rake deciduous tree leaves and add them to the compost pile.
 Pick and destroy bagworms from evergreens and shrubs. This will eliminate the spring hatching of overwintering eggs.
 Plant shrubs and divide crowded perennials.
 Prune leaves and stems of herbaceous perennials as they turn brown.

Third Week:
 Continue to mow the lawn so that it will not be matted down under heavy snow, if we have any.
 Plant spring flowering bulbs.
 Rake and clean up rose gardens to prevent black spot and other diseases.
 Keep an eye open for reduced prices on end-of-the-season gardening tools and equipment to be used next year or given as gifts.

Final Week:
 Transplant small trees after leaves have fallen.
 Secure vines to their support systems.
 Clean up garden debris and add to the compost pile.

Sussex County Fall Workshops

2010-10-11T01:54:00.000-04:00

Three more workshops are slated on the Sussex Co. Master Gardener summer/fall schedule. All are free, except where noted, and will be in the Carvel Center building, except where noted. Register by contacting Karen Adams at 302-856-2585 ext. 540/ adams@udel.edu or online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/ workshopreg.html. On the workshop list are:

Color for All Seasons – Lisa Arni – Tuesday, Oct. 19 at 1 p.m.

Beauty and the Beets – Tracy Mulveny – Tuesday, Nov. 9 at 1 p.m.

Hands-On Holiday Arrangement – Mary Noel – Tuesday, Nov. 30 at 1 p.m. –

Cost is $8. Class size is limited to 30.

MASTER GARDENER CLASS

2010-10-11T01:37:00.001-04:00

Applications are now being accepted−for the next Master Gardener class that will begin in September 2011. The deadline for applications is June 1, 2011. The application form can be downloaded from the website http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/MGTraining.html.

KENT COUNTY FALL WORKSHOPS

2010-10-11T01:30:00.000-04:00

All workshops in Kent Co. are free, excepted where noted, and are held at the Paradee Center, except where noted. Please call the Paradee Center to register at 302-730-4000.
.
Growing Bulbs – Ellen Scheel and Eileen Wells – Friday, Oct. 15 at 6:30 p.m.

Corn Husk Wreaths – Marilyn McFarlin – Wednesday, Oct. 27 at 6:30 p.m. – Class size limited to 15. Cost: $7.

Feeding the Birds – presenter to be announced – Thursday, Nov. 11 at 1 p.m.

Making a Christmas Centerpiece – Pat Renfrow – Wednesday, Dec. 8 at 6:30 p.m. Cost: $10.

SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

2010-09-04T18:54:00.002-04:00

First week in September:
• Have soil tested to determine the amount of lime and fertilizer required and apply to lawn area.
• Space strawberry runner plants about six inches apart. Pull out extra plants.
• Start tomato plant indoors in a peat pot. Select a short-day variety such as ‘Pixie.’ When large enough, transplant into 3 ½ -inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window. Water and feed it regularly, and tomatoes will be ready for Christmas dinner.

Second Week:
• Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses and seed pods to decorate holiday wreaths.
• Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.
• Start new begonias by digging and dividing roots. Use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, each division should have three or four buds (the small pinkish-colored buds at the crown of the roots). When planting new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface; otherwise, the plant will produce foliage but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

Third Week:
• Clean up garden debris and add to compost pile, or turn under vegetation. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from Sept. 1 through Nov. 1.
• Take in Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus and place on a cool porch or cool part of the house. Do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Final Week:
• Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will make weeding much easier next spring.
• When planting spring bulbs, the depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb; for example, tulips are about 5-6 inches; for daffodils, 5-7 inches; 3-4 inches for hyacinths; and 1 ½ -3 inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulbs’ greatest width.
• Take poinsettia inside. It is best to repot into a similar but slightly larger container, using a regular commercial potting soil. Place in a warm sunny window.
• Don’t wait for frost warnings to take houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 deg. or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants for pests and diseases and repot if needed.

AUGUST GARDENING

2010-07-30T18:25:00.000-04:00

First Week in August:
 Now is the ideal time to take pictures and plan for next year’s vegetable and flower gardens.
 Order your spring flowering bulbs.
 Check your garden plants, shrubs, flowers and trees for diseases and insect pests.
 Begin planning and planting your fall vegetables, such as lettuce, radishes, kale, spinach, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and peas.
 Pinch back to remove dead heads from annuals.
Mid-August:
 Collect materials for dried flower arrangements, including weeds, flowers, marsh grasses and foliage.
 Prepare lawn or lawn areas that are going to be seeded.
 Harvest ripened vegetables. Sweet corn is ready when ears feel full and firm and the silks have turned brown and dry; cantaloupes are ready to eat when stems slip or separate easily from the fruit.
 Feed roses for the last time.
 Check azaleas, if they are beginning to look pale green to yellow. This is called chloritic. Check soil pH. These acid-loving plants may need to be fed.
Late August:
 Grapes that are ripening now perish easily, so keep refrigerated after harvesting.
 Inspect trunks and branches of dogwoods and other trees for injured bark or fine dust pushed from burrows in trunk by borers.
 Plant new lawns or reseed bare spots in old lawns. This can be done until Sept. 30 in Delaware. If it’s dry, be sure to water newly seeded lawns daily.

Kent Co. Master Gardeners Award Scholarships

2010-07-30T18:23:00.000-04:00

Three students have each received a $1,000 scholarship from the Kent Co. Master Gardeners. The scholarships, funded solely from profits from the annual Plant Sale in April, were awarded at a dinner meeting at the Paradee Center. Earning the scholarships were: Nathan Adamson from Dover, who will be a junior at the University of Delaware, studying plant science with a minor in biology and landscape horticulture; Lindsey Bethard from Magnolia, who will be a sophomore at the University of Delaware, studying Agriculture Education; and Amanda Fabi from Felton, who will enter the University of Delaware in the fall planning to major in Animal Biotechnology/Wildlife Biology. According to Kathleen Berhalter, chair of the scholarship committee, these students were chosen from “an impressive field of applicants.” They all came with high grade point averages and excellent recommendations.

Applications for Class of 2011 Kent/Sussex Co.

2010-07-30T18:19:00.001-04:00

Applications are now being accepted−and some have already been submitted−for the next Master Gardener class that will begin in September 2011. The deadline for applications is June 1, 2011. The application form can be downloaded from the website http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/MGTraining.html

2010-07-27T10:10:00.000-04:00

GREEN THUMB GARDEN CLUB

The garden club at The Modern Maturity Center, Dover will open the classroom doors on August 25th in the West Conference Room at 9:30 AM. and again at 6 PM. The topic is:

GROWING GRASS FROM SEED
Tom Dix will give you his sure fire tricks for getting grass to grow even on poor soil.
The best time to plant grass in Delaware is from August 15th to September 15th.
This is a great class for a guy who cuts grass and knows very little about grass. It is being offered at 6 PM to accommodate the working population. Grass pests and diseases will not be covered during class. Bring pictures and samples for an after class session.

As the weather cools down it is the proper time to trim your shrubs and trees. You can take a class in:
PRUNING AND SHAPING
TREES AND SHRUBS
John Trivets will visit us from Sussex County for a class on the proper way cut trees and shrubs.
He likes to call it Pruning or Shaping! He will join us at the green house at 9:30AM on Sept 1st.
Bring pictures of your trees or shrubs.

We will meet in the west conference room on September 8TH at 9:30 AM to discuss:
FALL PLANTING OF BULBS FOR SPRING FLOWERS
Rexene Ornauer, a Master Gardener perennial expert, will take you through all the spring plants
we normally call bulbs. She will show and tell you all different ways you can plant these easy to grow plants.

Our last class for the year will be a bus trip to Wendy’s house to cover:
GATHERING SEEDS
&
THINNING OUT PERENIALS
Wendy’s garden near Killins pond is a total joy this time of year. Bring labels and small plastic
bags to carry all the cuttings. Listen to her tell you many stories about the various plants in the outdoor rooms of her garden. A most pleasant way to spend a few hours. Please join us by meeting the bus at the greenhouse at 9:30AM on September 15th. $2.50 transportation fee will be charged. This the last gardening class at Modern Maturity for the year.

If you have Gardening question, call the Master Gardener Hotline at 730-4000.
Please stay out of the hot sun from 11AM to 3PM. Or, garden on the few cloudy days!

We are charging a fee of $4.00 for the four classes. Those students that had previous registered
for the year are exempt from this fee. All others should go to the customer desk to register.

Thank you very much.
Tom Dix
302-674-7404

Sussex County Summer-Fall Workshops

2010-06-27T14:10:00.003-04:00

Seven workshops are slated on the Sussex Co. Master Gardener Workshop schedule. All are free, except where noted, and will be inside the Carvel Center building, except where noted. Please pre-register by contacting Karen Adams at 302-856-2585 ext. 540/ adams@udel.edu or online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/ MasterGardeners/workshopreg.html. On the workshop list are:

Hydrangeas – Vickie Thompson –

Tuesday, July 13 at 1 p.m.

Herbal Vinegars From the Ground Up – Susan Trone, Emily Peterson, Donna Fellows –

Tuesday, July 27 at 1 p.m. – Held in the Demonstration Garden and in the Carvel Center kitchen –

Cost is $10. Class size is limited to 30.

Attracting Songbirds & Other Wildlife Using Native Plants – Brent Marsh –

Tuesday, Aug. 24 at 1 p.m

Growing Greens – Ingrid Hetfield –

Tuesday, Sept. 14 at 1 p.m. in the Demonstration Garden.

Color for All Seasons – Lisa Arni –

Tuesday, Oct. 19 at 1 p.m.

Beauty and the Beets – Tracy Mulveny –

Tuesday, Nov. 9 at 1 p.m.

Hands-On Holiday Arrangement – Mary Noel –

Tuesday, Nov. 30 at 1 p.m. – Cost is $8. Class size is limited to 30.

WORKSHOPS SUMMER 2010

2010-06-03T19:28:00.004-04:00

Make a Hypertufa Pot
Thursday, June 10, 2010
5:30 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.
Raindate: Thursday, June 17, 2010
Location: SORC Smyrna Outreach and Resource Centerh

Hypertufa expert and Master Gardener,
Carolyn Donahoe, will lead a small class in
making the lightweight and attractive
alternative to heavy stone and cement
planters. Make your own hypertufa planter
which is excellent for growing garden
oddities such as succulents, cactus or alpine plants.
To protect your hands, please bring a heavy pair
of dishwashing gloves with you to class.
$15.00 Fee Class size is limited to 15.

Make a Rain Barrel

Thursday. June 24, 2010 1:00 p.m. Location: Paradee Center

Catching and using rainwater is beneficial to the

environment and your plants (especially if you

have a water softener) while also saving you

money and energy. Master Gardener, Paul Myers,

will lead the class through the process of making

a rain barrel so you can catch and use rainwater in

your yard and around the home!

$ 62.00 Fee Class size is limited to 14.

Fall Vegetables

Wednesday, July 7, 2010 1:30 p.m Location: Paradee Center

Join Master Gardeners, George and Marion

Brewington, to learn about delicious fall

vegetables that will extend the gardening season

well after earlier crops have finished. Find out

about the many cool weather vegetables that

produce their best flavor & quality, while maturing

during cool weather!

Protect Our Streams

Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:30 p.m. Location: Paradee Center

Gardeners love what they do but they also

need to know their effect on the

environment and what they can do to

protect natural resources. Ginger North

from the Delaware Nature Society, will talk

about the health of our streams and what

each one of us can do, as gardeners, to keep

our water healthy.

Garden Bouquets

Thursday, August 19, 2010 6:30 p.m. Location: Paradee Center

Did you grow flowers in your garden this

year? Do you have some in your yard?

Bring a few flowers with you to the class

along with an empty fruit or vegetable can

that is color coordinated. After a

demonstration on the principles of arranging,

by Master Gardener Wendy Aycoth, you will

make your own beautiful arrangement!

MAY GARDENING CALENDER

2010-05-11T12:46:00.002-04:00

§ Prune your spring flowering shrubs (lilacs, forsythias, spireas, etc.) after they have finished blooming. You also want to thin these out by removing up to one-third of the older branches at or near ground level.

§ Check your trees, especially wild cherry, for tent caterpillars: remove and destroy tents (they look like a white cotton-candy mass on branches).

§ Keep newly planted trees and shrubs watered (unless it’s a rainy month). Do not let the soil dry out.

§ Plant gladiolus, dahlias and other summer bulbs.

§ Stay out of your garden when plant foliage is wet. Walking through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.

§ If you are having a problem with earwigs and sow bugs, try trapping them with rolled up newspapers that have been moistened with water. The insects will hide in the paper by day. Gather up the traps and dispose of them frequently.

§ Closely examine your ornamental plantings for disease and pests. Check your dogwoods for borers; boxwood, holly and birch for leaf miners; evergreens for spider mites and aphids.

§ Mulch flowers, established vegetables and evergreen shrubs. Grass clippings are great and easier to handle if allowed to dry first. Remember, never use clippings from a lawn that has been treated with an herbicide.

§ Allow leaves on tulips and daffodils to mature; do not cut off until brown. Fill in spaces in your flower beds with annual flowers.

§ Pinch annuals when 4-6 in. high to promote bushy growth; for example, zinnias, petunias and salvia.

MOLES ARE RUINING MY LAWN…OH, MY

2010-05-11T12:27:00.001-04:00

One pest that I get telephone calls and e-mails on almost all year long is moles. Moles are small mammals that create underground tunnels that are evident by mound-type (runways) across lawns, gardens, pastures and woodland areas. These are used as travel lanes and cause damage to grass and other plants by disturbing and sometimes destroying roots, tubers and bulb systems. Moles create the tunnels in search for food, which consists of mature insects, snail larvae, spiders, small vertebrates, grubs, and earthworms. The last two are their favorite foods. Because they eat many “bad” insect pests, they could be considered beneficial.

The common mole found in Delaware is small, about 5-8 inches long, dark gray, furry, and has a long tapered snout. It has no external ears and very tiny eyes. One feature that stands out is its large, paddle-like front feet and prominent toenails, which are used to dig the tunnels.

Moles have one litter of two to six young a year. Gestation lasts about six weeks and the pups are born anytime from mid-April to the end of May.

There have been many unsuccessful “home remedies” to control or rid lawn and garden areas of moles. Some of these include moth balls, chewing gum, castor oil, pickle juice, red pepper, human hair, ultrasonic devices and bleach. These don’t work because moles are meat eaters (insectivores.)

If moles have become a nuisance, the two methods recommended are trapping and reducing the insect populations in your yard. Remove their food source and they will forage another area for their food supply.

There are two types of traps: the harpoon and choker loop traps (read and foolow manufacturer’s packaged instructions.) Trapping is more successful in the spring and fall, especially after a rain. In the summer and winter, moles are active in deep soil and harder to locate. Also, you will need to select a frequently-used or active tunnel. To locate an active tunnel in your lawn or garden area, use your foot and step on it to cave in short sections of several runways. Remember to mark these areas with a stick. Moles are very smart, so don’t disturb the tunnels more than necessary. The following day, check each tunnel to see which ones are reopened. The re-opened ones are active tunnels, which is where you want to place your trap. If there is no catch within a day or two, move to a new location and reset the trap.

Using insecticides to reduce food supply (the soil insect population) is also an option. The best time to control grubs is when they are actively feeding close to the soil surface in late sumer and early fall. After applying the soil insecticide, don’t expect mores to leave the area immediately, it may take a short while. Also, keep in mind that insecticides will kill most soil insects—good and/bad. For a fact sheet on grub control, contact your local Cooperate Extension office for fact sheets on Home, Yard, and Garden, or Lawn Insects and Their Control, or go to the website: http://ag.udel.edu/extension/horticulture/pdf/ent/ent-17.pdf Read and follow all label directions.

Maggie Moor-Orth

Delaware State University Cooperative Extension

Blooming Sanseveria

2010-04-06T10:22:00.010-04:00

Janis Greene a Dover Master Gardener reports that her Sanseveria (snake plant/mother in laws tonque plant) is blooming. “I had no idea that they ever bloomed and therefore didn’t recognize the lovely fragrance as coming from a small hidden stalk of tiny flowers, I guess it blooms when the plant is root-bound. Who knew!?! The flowers don’t last long and seem to hate sunlight, wilting right away in the extreme light. The house smells wonderful!"

Searching the net for information I found that many people have had plants for 30 years and never saw a bloom. They are native to Africa and apparently do bloom in the wild. They grow in rocky places and do not like to be over watered. They should be repotted only when the pot topples over from the weight of the plant.