SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

First week in September:
• Have soil tested to determine the amount of lime and fertilizer required and apply to lawn area.
• Space strawberry runner plants about six inches apart. Pull out extra plants.
• Start tomato plant indoors in a peat pot. Select a short-day variety such as ‘Pixie.’ When large enough, transplant into 3 ½ -inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window. Water and feed it regularly, and tomatoes will be ready for Christmas dinner.

Second Week:
• Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses and seed pods to decorate holiday wreaths.
• Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.
• Start new begonias by digging and dividing roots. Use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, each division should have three or four buds (the small pinkish-colored buds at the crown of the roots). When planting new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface; otherwise, the plant will produce foliage but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

Third Week:
• Clean up garden debris and add to compost pile, or turn under vegetation. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from Sept. 1 through Nov. 1.
• Take in Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus and place on a cool porch or cool part of the house. Do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Final Week:
• Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will make weeding much easier next spring.
• When planting spring bulbs, the depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb; for example, tulips are about 5-6 inches; for daffodils, 5-7 inches; 3-4 inches for hyacinths; and 1 ½ -3 inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulbs’ greatest width.
• Take poinsettia inside. It is best to repot into a similar but slightly larger container, using a regular commercial potting soil. Place in a warm sunny window.
• Don’t wait for frost warnings to take houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 deg. or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants for pests and diseases and repot if needed.

AUGUST GARDENING CALENDER

First week of August:

v     Now is the ideal time to take pictures and plan for next year’s vegetable and flower gardens.

v     Order your spring flowering bulbs now.

v     Check your garden plants, shrubs, flowers and trees for diseases and insect pests.

v     Begin planning and planting your fall vegetables, such as lettuce, radishes, kale, spinach, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and peas.

Mid-August:

v     Apply a second treatment of lawn insecticide for grub control or use milky spore dust, a bacteria that will attack more than 40 species of white grubs; this can be applied anytime.

v     Collect materials for dried flower arrangements, including weeds, flowers, marsh grasses and foliage.

v     Prepare lawn or lawn areas that are going to be seeded.

v     Feed roses for the last time.

v     Check azaleas if they are beginning to look pale green to yellow. This is called chloritic. Check soil pH. These acid-loving plants need to be fed.

Late August:

v     Grapes that are ripening now perish easily so keep refrigerated after harvesting.

v     Inspect trunks and branches of dogwoods and other trees for injured bark or fine dust pushed from burrows in trunks by borers.

v     Fertilize fall vegetable garden plants.

v     Plant new lawns or reseed bare spots in old lawns. This can be done until Sept. 30 in Delaware. If it’s dry, be sure to water newly seeded lawns every day.

July Gardening Calender

First week:

·        Feed roses.

·        Watch for mites on roses, shrubs, trees and ground covers.

·        Control Japanese beetles on roses, crape myrtle, grapes and other host plants. Keep in mind, traps attract beetles, so hang them away from the plant you want to protect.

·        Harvest and hang herbs before they go to bloom. Tie in little bunches and hang in a ventilated warm space to cure. After thoroughly dried, put in sealed jars for winter use.

Second week:

·        Pinch back chrysanthemums for the last time.

·        Deadhead rhododendrons to increase next year’s flowers. Remember to remove only spent flower heads. Do not damage newly expanded leaves.

·        Keep all newly planted and shrubs watered; soak thoroughly once a week, either mornings or early evenings.

·        Increase the mowing heights on your lawn mower during dry, hot summer days.

·        Prepare to harvest onions. When seedpods start to form, turn tops down and allow another two weeks for the onions to ripen before harvesting. Dry harvested onions in the shade before storing.

Third week:

·        Check tomatoes for late blight and fruit for hornworms. Treat with a product labeled for that purpose. Handpick hornworms and destroy them.

·        Water shrubs and trees planted this year, if necessary.

·        Harvest vine-ripened fruits.

Last week:

·        Continue efforts to control Japanese beetles and other garden pests.

·        Divide bearded iris when clumps are too large.

Tips for Watering Garden and Landscape Plants

Sprinklers

            When using sprinklers, keep the water pattern even by moving the sprinkler frequently and overlapping about one-half of each pattern.  Place oscillating sprinklers higher than the plants to prevent water from being diverted by plant leaves.  Do not apply water faster than the soil can absorb it.  Be sure the sprinkler is not watering the sidewalk, street, or any other paved surface.

Soaker hoses

            There is a variety of special soaker hoses available.  These can reduce water-loss due to evaporation and run-off and generally do not cost more than normal garden hoses.  Perforated plastic hoses or soaker hoses should be placed with holes facing downward along one side of the crop row or underneath mulch.  Water will slowly soak in the soil without wetting foliage, thus decreasing evaporation and the risk of foliage-fungal diseases.

Trickle or drip irrigation

            Trickle or drip irrigation is very efficient since it applies water to each plant’s root zone at a rate consistent with its moisture requirements.  It can reduce water use by as much as 50% to 80% compared to overhead irrigation.  Another advantage of this system is that foliage stays dry, reducing the potential for foliage disease problems.

           

IT IS BEST to water early in the morning and then water only when needed.  When watering, fill the entire root area and then allow the soil to partially dry out before the next watering.  The speed of drying depends on the type of plant, the plant size, the type of soil and weather conditions (sunny and windy conditions dry faster).

           

            A small or newly established plant will need watering every few days to one week.  Since seeds and seedlings should never be allowed to dry, they need more frequent watering.  A vegetable garden should be watered when the soil within one inch of the surface feels dry to the touch.  Once plants are established, watering may be frequent to encourage the roots to grow deeper.  This can be done by gradually extending the length of time between watering.

            In closing, to avoid wasting our valuable natural resources, it is very important to provide the correct amount and proper method of watering to ensure healthy vigorous plants.

           

JUNE GARDENING CALENDER

First week of June:

Ø      Check your bedding plants; remove old flower heads to prolong the blooming period. Also, pinch mums for bushier plants.

Ø      Make another planting of vegetables, such as sweet corn and snap beans.

Ø      Thin out vegetable plantings, for instance, beets and lettuce.

Ø      Feed your roses every month until early August with ¼ cup of 10-10-10 per plant.

Second week of June:

Ø      Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming is finished.

Ø      Spray your mimosa and honey locust for webworms. Look for small clumps of leaves tied together with silk threads scattered over the tree. Upon closer examination, the upper surface of the leaves are skeletonized. The leaves turn brown and die, which will make the tree look as if it has been scorched by a fire.

Ø      Take care of your newly planted trees and shrubs. They should receive a thorough soaking each week. Mulch to conserve moisture.

Third week of June:

Ø      Control aphids and other pests on vegetables by removing, spraying or washing.

Ø      Place cages or stakes to support growing tomato plants. Cages or trellises work well for growing cucumbers, too.

Ø      Be careful trimming grass around young trees and shrubs when using trimmers. The young tender bark on these plants can be easily broken, resulting in injury to the water-transporting tissue and creating openings for insects and disease to enter.

Last week of June:

Ø      Continue spraying your roses and fruit trees.

Ø      Check your ornamentals for scale insects; these need to be treated if present.

Ø      Mid to late June is a great time to start new plants from soft wood cuttings of shrubs, such as azalea, spirea, boxwood, camellia, hydrangea, etc.

Ø      Mow and fertilize strawberries after fruiting.

DELAWARE FRESH PRODUCE

During the month of May and early June, many of the Farmers Markets and on Farm

Markets throughout the state of Delaware will be opening, and farmers will be bringing their fresh produce for many of us to purchase. How lucky we are, because meeting and getting to know our farmers means we know our food. Buying local ensures we have really fresh food and a great way to keep our small farmers in business.

It is important to remember that vegetables are usually at their best quality and price at

the peak of their season. Purchasing produce when in season also ensures its freshness.

Always check the characteristic signs of freshness: crispness, uniform color, firmness, blemish free and dryness. The difference in these qualities means the difference in price and quality grades furnished by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). Equally important to remember is that vegetables grow in a great variety and provide vitamins and minerals.

Because fresh vegetables have individual characteristics and values, there are no set rules

for buying them. Personal experience is probably the best teacher.

However, the following list is designed as a handy reference when purchasing certain

vegetables:

Beans (Snap): Look for fresh, bright appearance with good color. Purchase young,

tender beans with pods that are firm and crisp. Thick, tough fibrous pods indicate
over-maturity.

Beets: Should be firm with a deep red color, and have a round taproot. In most cases

beets are sold in a bunch with tops attached. The condition of the tops is a good judge of

their freshness. Avoid wilted and flabby beets.

Broccoli: Look for a compact cluster of flowers that is firm, green and sometimes has a

purplish cast. Avoid yellow-opened buds or wilted clusters.

Carrots: Should be well-colored, firm, well-formed and smooth. The tops, if attached,

should be fresh and have a good green color.

Corn: Pick ears that are well covered with plump, but not too mature kernels. Husks

should be green and the silk-ends should be free of decay or worm damage.

Cucumbers: Look for a completely firm, well-developed good green-colored fruit.

Avoid overgrown, large-in-diameter, withered and dull green-colored cucumbers.

Peppers: Look for peppers with a deep characteristic color (peppers come in a variety of

colors like: purple, green, yellow, white, orange and red), glossy sheen, firm-walled, and

relatively heavy weight. Avoid a pepper that is wilted or soft.

Potatoes: Potatoes should be firm, smooth, free of blemishes and sprouts, and free of the

green discoloration under the skin (sunburn). Avoid potatoes with large cuts, or that are

shriveled, bruised and/or decayed.

Squash (summer): Look for somewhat young, small, firm, glossy, blemish and pit-free

skin, and tender fruit.

Tomatoes: Look for a smooth, firm (but not hard), well ripened fruit, with a deep color,

and reasonably blemish free.

Remember, Delaware vegetable producers will be harvesting freshly grown products soon.

Therefore, buy when vegetables are in season; the prices will be more reasonable.

Buy only what you can eat or store for two to five days (root vegetables can be stored

longer). Handle produce carefully because vegetables bruise easily. At the point of sale, you are the best judge of vegetable quality. And don’t forget some fresh flowers too.

Enjoy Delaware’s best and remember: Know your farm; you’ll know your food. You can

find a list of local Delaware Farmers Markets on the Delaware Department of Agriculture’s website at     http://dda.delaware.gov/marketing/DE_FRMVENS.shtml.

Kent County Master Gardener Workshop

Edible & Medicinal Plants: In the Wild & Your Backyard
Thursday April 26, 2012 6:30 p.m.

Did you know that some plants in your yard are edible and others have
medicinal value? In this workshop, Susan Yost, Ph.D., Educator at the Claude E. Phillips Herbarium at Delaware State University, will introduce you to native and naturalized plants of forest, fields and backyards in Delaware and tell you how
they can be used for food and medicine.

Please call 730-4000 to register
Held at the University of Delaware, Paradee Center, Dover