JANUARY GARDENING CALENDER

For the First Half of the Month:

· On warm days, go outside and check your perennials and bulbs to see if they have been heaved out of the ground by freezing and thawing of the soil. If so, press down firmly and cover with at least two inches of organic mulch.

· Thoroughly check your houseplants for pests. If you find any, treat these immediately before populations get too high.

· Another common problem of houseplants this time of year is the low humidity that is in most homes during the winter. One way to increase the humidity is to place plants over, but not in, trays which have water in them.

· In addition, low-light levels in your home may be causing some problems and may need to be adjusted. Move plants that normally do best on the north side of the house to an east window. For those plants that are ordinarily in the east windows, move them to a south location.

· Review your vegetable garden plans for the upcoming season.

· If you bought a live ball-rooted Christmas tree, remember to water it. It can be planted outside as long as the soil can be worked.

For the Second Half of the Month of January:

· Sit down on cold, snowy, or rainy days with newly received garden seed catalogs. Compare new varieties. An important consideration is improved pest and/or disease resistant seeds over older varieties.

· Pull out and check your notes from last year’s garden. Reorder the varieties that you had success with and any new ones you may want to try.

· Start a pot of shamrocks to have ready by St. Patrick’s Day in March.

· Start pansy plants from seeds indoors. They should be ready to transplant outdoors in mid-March to bloom with spring tulips and daffodils.

· Begin bringing in the pots of bulbs prepared for forcing last fall. Place in a warm

60-65^oF shaded location. Move to a sunny spot when you see green leaves begin to show.

· Begin dormant pruning of fruit trees and grape vines now; try to finish before March.

· Apply horticultural oil sprays to kill over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use this oil on deciduous plants and hardy evergreens, but not on needle-leaved species. Read and follow label directions.

· Spray oils when temperatures are above 40^oF, but not within 24 hours of a freeze (watch the local weather stations for this information). Read and follow all label directions.

· Check with your local county extension office for upcoming Master Gardener

workshops on Gardening in Delaware.

HOUSEPLANTS

Boy, wasn’t last week beautiful! But, unfortunately, winter is going to be around for another eight weeks yet. If you are getting some winter blahs, why not take advantage of some of the great house plant sales going on in local garden supply stores.

Or just treat yourself and your home to a new houseplant. First of all, before you leave the store with your new plant, be sure to ask the salesperson the name of your new plant so that you can look up care requirements from a house plant book.

The following are some considerations you should think about before and after you purchase a new houseplant: The most important factor in houseplant care is the light requirement. Study the light levels in your home or in the room where the plant will be living. Are you going to be displaying your plant in a sunroom or in hallway? Will the plant be next to a window or in a far corner away from a light source? Are you planning on providing an artificial light source?

Match the plant’s needs to your personal schedule. Certain plants require very little care, while others are very high. In addition, some plants can survive and grow well on an irregular watering schedule. Consider room and furniture dimensions. What size plant do you need? What is the maximum growth and height the plant will reach? Start out with the healthiest plants you can find. Go to a reputable nursery or florist. Examine the plants carefully. Plants should have only a few brown-edged leaves and only a few leaves should have been trimmed.

The plants should be full and bushy, with small spaces between leaves. Large gaps between new leaves can be an indication of over-fertilizing and crowded to induce rapid growth, or that it has spent some time under improper lighting conditions.

Inspect the leaves and stem joints on the plant for any evidence of insects or diseases. Bringing home an infected plant may be hazardous to any plant you already have. Flowering plants should have many buds that are just beginning to open. Plants in full bloom may soon lose much of their loveliness. More importantly, it may be impossible to get the plant to bloom again unless conditions are perfect.

Plants need to adjust to their new surrounding and may even go into a mild shock. Getting the houseplant use to its new home may take several weeks. Pay close attention to the plant’s needs. Try to have similar light conditions. Keep the plant moderately moist during this period, and do not allow it to dry out. To water your new houseplant, water thoroughly each time and discard the excess water from the drainage saucer. Once the plant has adjusted to its new living conditions, try not to move it.

These few points will help you select plants suited to your schedule, environment, and keep your plants healthier longer.

ROSEMARY FOR CHRISTMAS

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is one of my favorite Christmas plants. This dense, spiky leaf, grayish-green evergreen reminds me of a miniature Christmas tree.

It can be decorated at this time of year to use as a center piece on your dining table.

There are several different cultivars of this herb available such as: Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Albus’ has white flowers; Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Benenden Blue’ has bright blue flowers; Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Roseus’ has a pink flower; and Rosmariunus officinalis ‘Severn Sea’ has brilliant blue flowers.

In Delaware, most cultivars are tender and must be brought in doors when the warm temperatures of summer end. However, there are two cultivars that are hardy; these are ‘Arp’ and ‘Very Oily.’

There are many stories and legends that have been told about the rosemary plant through the centuries. I thought for this holiday season I would share some of these with you.

Rosemary was also known as the Holy Herb and/or Rose of Mary by the Greeks. The Greeks told this legend. One day the Holy family was fleeing from Herod’s soldiers and the weary Virgin Mary needed to rest.

They came upon a grove of fragrant shiny leafed shrubs with white flowers. Mary gently placed her heavenly blue cloak over these rosemary bushes to dry and when it was removed the flowers had turned blue in her honor. This blue is the same color of blossoms on several cultivars of rosemary.

Another story is that a Rosemary plant will not grow any taller than six feet the believed adult height of Jesus Christ. After 33 years, (Christ’s age at the crucifixion) a Rosemary bush will grow in width but not in height.

It is also the herb associated with remembrance, love, and friendship. One tale I read took place in old England. This was that sweethearts would exchange a branch of rosemary when they parted, lest they be forgotten.

In the fable, Sleeping Beauty, rosemary was the herb tea used but failed to awaken the beautiful sleeping princess.

Besides all of these legends and stories associated with rosemary, this is truly one of the best culinary herbs. It is great for seasoning stews, sauces, soups, lamb, chicken, vegetable dishes, and jellies.

To conclude, next time you are thinking about giving a holiday plant to someone special, why not give this unique herb plant that represents love, friendship, loyalty and remembrance. Have a happy and memorable holiday!

FEEDING THE BIRDS IN WINTER

One of the best gifts I received for the holiday last year was a bird feeder from my nephew, Gordon. It was a gift that gave all winter. I hung it just outside of my kitchen window and, while I did kitchen chores, I could watch a variety of birds coming to feed. Some weeks, I would have to fill the feeder two or three times. Feeding birds in winter is a big responsibility because once you start feeding them, you should continue until warm weather returns and birds can find food in your neighborhood.

The following tips will be a guide for bird feeders and watchers this winter:

• Place your bird feeder or feeders near, but not in, trees or shrubs. A cat may use this area to hide in while waiting for a tasty bird on which to snack or dine.
• Place in a sheltered area or south side of the home out of harsh winter winds. Strong winds will cause the feeder to move back and forth, scattering and wasting the food.
• Place the bird feeder where it is easiest for you to see the birds. Keep in mind that if it’s too close to your house, birds may never come to it.
• Choose a bird feeder designed specifically for the food you plan to put in it.
• Fill the feeder with only enough feed for several days’ use. Seeds tend to spoil in certain conditions and may be harmful to the birds.
• Use a feeder that is constructed to protect the feed in any weather.
• Rake the ground under the feeder every week or two to prevent accumulation of spilled seed that may become moldy.
• Position the feeder to prevent food raids from unwanted animals like mice and rats.
• Place the feeder away from low-hanging branches that squirrels may use in order to have access to the bird feed. Keep in mind, there are commercial squirrel-proof hoods for bird feeders.
• Look around your landscape – you may have many natural platforms for feeders, for example, a tree stump, top of a fence post or slat-top rocks.

The following chart will be a guide for the kinds of feed to put out for specific birds:

Cracked Corn -- Cowbirds, red-winged blackbirds, starlings, tree sparrows, song sparrows, purple finch, and pine siskins.

Sunflower seed -- Cardinals, goldfinches, chickadees, nuthatches, blue jays and purple finches.

Suet – Downy and hairy woodpeckers, red-bellied woodpeckers, blue jays, brown creepers, starlings and mocking wrens.

Cut-up apples, bananas, grapes, oranges, raisins and wild fruit – Catbirds, bluebirds and wild brown thrashers.

Breads, cereals and peanut butter – Woodpeckers, nuthatches and chickadees.

While the weather is cold and the natural bird food supply is limited, why not purchase a feeder or refill your present one? Then, you can enjoy the variety of feathered friends that will come and feast in your backyard, too!

If you are looking for a special present for someone, why not consider a bird feeder and a bag of feed? The recipient and the birds will thank you many times.

: Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

DECEMBER GARDEN CALENDER

First Week

· Collect pinecones, old bird nests, any remaining seed heads, etc. to be used in making wreaths and other holiday decorations.

· Spray seed heads and dried flowers with hair spray to keep them intact.

· Clean and sanitize (mixture of 1 part bleach and 10 parts water can be used) emptied seed flats before storing so that they will be ready when needed in the early spring.

· Make herbal presents like herb vinegars and/or potpourri for the holidays.

· Select your tree early and tag it while visiting your local Christmas tree farm.

· Change the oil and do routine maintenance on your outdoor power equipment, such as rotary tillers and lawn mowers. Remember to recycle this used oil.

Second Week

· Order your 2011 seed catalogs.

· Check stored dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms; if they are sprouting, move to a cooler location. If they appear to be shriveling, rewrap them using a ventilated plastic bag.

If there are signs of molding, change their environment; this is usually a result of moisture conditions.

· Mulch azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias thoroughly after the ground freezes. These acid-loving plants prefer acid-loving materials like oak leaves or pine needles. If you do not have either of these, any mixture of dried leaves will do.

· Scout your landscape for the small, buff or yellowish velvet gypsy moth egg cases attached to trees, stones, walls, logs and other outdoor objects, including outdoor household articles. Pick them off and destroy.

· Feed birds continually throughout the winter once you start feeding them. Birds need feed, water and cover (discarded Christmas trees are great for providing bird shelter).

Third Week

· Prevent fires by placing Christmas trees away from heater vents, fireplaces, television sets and anything else that can cause the needles to dry out. In addition, be sure to keep your tree watered the entire time it is in your home.

· Make evergreen arrangements with branches that have been trimmed from Christmas trees.

· Prune fruit trees anytime this winter. Keep in mind, it is easier on the tree if the temperature is 45^o and above.

Last Week

· Check around trunks of trees and bases of large shrubs for rodent damage.

· Fertilize peach and apple trees anytime after the leaves drop and before spring growth.

· Give special attention to water, light, and feeding requirements of houseplants.

· Recycle your holiday tree; it has several good uses. The branches can be placed over spring flowering bulb beds and/or perennial flower beds to help prevent heaving damage caused by the ground freezing and thawing, and, as mentioned above, placed outside next to a bird feeder, it provides shelter for birds.

· Buy yourself a new houseplant if you are suffering from the end-of-the-year blahs. Because of the light, water and feeding requirements, determine where it is going to be placed before you buy.

Have a happy and healthy holiday season.

Firewood

November is here and we all have to face the facts that colder temperatures are demanding that we turn on our home heating systems or light our woodstoves and/or fireplaces. At our house, we have had our cut firewood stacked by the hedgerow since spring. Who knows what will crawl out of it when it is warmed by indoor temperatures!

If you also bring in wood to burn in your fireplace or woodstove, you may have noticed a few insects emerging from the wood. They are living in wood or just under the bark where they are over-wintering. As the split wood becomes room temperature, insects are fooled into thinking it is spring. These nuisance insects include wasp carpenter ants, wood roaches, earwigs, powderpost, long-horned and bark beetles. The occasional wasp that is found creeping from or near the stacked wood can be easily killed using a fly swatter or an indoor flying insect spray.

Carpenter ants are predominately black colored and vary in size (from ¼ inch to ¾ inch); they have a very narrow waist. They tunnel into diseased moist wood -- for example, an old stump, fence post or large pieces of wood (like stacked firewood) -- in order to increase their nest size. They are nocturnal creatures, and if seen during the day, they are searching for food or water.

Powderpost, long-horned and bark beetles are usually wood boring while in the larval stage. They live in fresh cut logs or living trees they do not infest dead trees or dry wood. Adults usually enter through the bark crevices, a wound or scar on the tree. You may notice sawdust accumulated around the holes or found on the ground just below small holes in the wood. Powderpost beetles feed only on dead wood. They are brought into the home on infested wood. Adult female beetles lay their eggs in unfinished wood. The hatched larvae or grub tunnel through the wood.

Long-horned beetle larvae are whitish and legless, and can be seen crawling around on stacked firewood. The adult are bullet shaped with long antennae. Adult bark beetles, tunnel directly through the bark to the cell tissue leaving a very characteristic gallery or tunnel. The beetle larvae hatch and feed away from the galleries. Favorite living environments for wood roaches are compost, old plant debris, and piles of wood. They are scavengers and eat decaying plant and animal matter.

Wood roaches are brown colored and only reproduce outdoors. Earwigs are reddish brown colored and a half to one inch long. They have pincher-like forceps (called cerci) at their posterior end. The adults have wings, but do not fly. They, too, are harmless and cannot reproduce indoors. They prefer high moisture conditions and feed on living and dead insects, mosses, lichens and algae found on wood. To manage these pests in the firewood, keep in mind the following practices:

· The sooner the firewood is split, the quicker it dries.

· Cut living trees in autumn or early spring when insects are in the over wintering or inactive stage.

· If possible, keep wood off the ground and covered (without covering, it is likely to become infested). Dry wood is less attractive to pests of firewood.

· Unseasoned wood should not be stored in basements or garages.

· NEVER spray firewood with an insecticide that is going to be burned during the current season with an insecticide.

There is nothing warmer and more relaxing than a wood fire in your woodstove or fireplace on a cold winter day or night. Do not let a few nuisance insects keep you from enjoying this comfort.

Small Farms Tip:

On December 12 and 13, 2011 the Small Farms Program at Delaware State University will be hosting a Profiting From a Few Acres Conference at the Dover Sheraton. Whether you have 1 acre or 1,000 acres this may be a conference for you. There will be sessions on Alternative Uses for Ag Buildings, Opportunities with Dairy Goats, Profiting through Game Birds, Agriculture as a Source of Entertainment, New Beginning Farm Purchase Program, Organic & No-Chemical Weed Control, Building Your Own Web Site, Season Extension and Marketing Alternatives for Animal Fibers, just to name a few. The cost for this two-day conference is $25.00 and includes lunch on both days. Scholarships are available to waive or reduce the registration fee. For more information or to register call 302-857-6462

Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

NOVEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

First week of November:

· Finish planting spring flowering bulbs.

· Pull up disease-free annuals and add to compost pile along with leaves and leftover garden material.

· Cut back and mulch perennials. This mulch will insulate them from the winter cold and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.

· Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc. Wash away soil, dry, label and place in a bag or box; cover with sphagnum moss, sawdust or perlite. Store in a cool, dry place.

Second week of November:

· Pot amaryllis to have them bloom by winter.

· Drain and bring in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.

· Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.

· Clean up garden and plant cover crop to improve existing soil condition.

· Cut back roses 18-20 in. and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.

Third week of November:

· Fertilize shade trees and peach trees.

· After frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables such as asparagus and rhubarb, cut leaf material down to ground level.

· To prevent winter windburn, thoroughly water all trees and shrubs weekly until the ground freezes.

Final week of November:

· After chrysanthemums have stopped blooming, cut the stems back to ground level and add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.

· Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.

HALLOWEEN PLANTS

This coming weekend is Halloween and over the years there have been many plants associated with this spooky day. The following article is based on folklore found in many plant books I have read through the years and should not be taken seriously. Historical like witches there are good and bad herbs plants. The good herb plants repel evil and act as a remedy against enchantment or spells and lightning.

The following are some herbs and plant materials associated with Halloween: Ash, Bay, Caraway, Chicory, Oxalis, Elder, Hawthorn, Hazel, Garlic, Rosemary, and Thyme.

· The Mountain (Sorbus aucuparia) and European (S. American) Ash trees are associated with Halloween folklore. In the fall Ash leaves change from green to yellow to red. Also, on the ash tree there are clumps of persistent orange-red berries that provide food for birds. These trees are planted near homes; it is said they protect all who reside within. Europeans believe cut branches brought indoors bless the home in the coming year. A piece of bark from the mountain ash carried in your pocket keeps away evil wishes. Furthermore, a small branch put in the butter churn keeps butter from souring.

· Bay (Laurus nabilis) is planted near homes or either side the entrance to prevent evil spirits from entering. Also, it protects the house from lightning and thunderbolts.

· Caraway (Carum carvi) has magic powers, too. It is believed a few seeds placed in a straying husband’s pocket will bring him back and keep him from being lured away.

· Chicory (Chicorium intybus) is very powerful. Whoever possesses it has the ability to become invisible.

· Oxalis, a four-leafed clover, gives the wearer the power to see fairies. In addition, strawberry and viola tricolor are considered protectants and avert the evil eye.

· European Elder (Sambucus nigra) tree is often used to drive away evil spirits and as a charm against lightning. If one stands under an Elder Tree on Midsummer Eve, he/she will see the King of Fairyland and his entourage.

· Hawthorn (Crataegeus) tree is considered magical and protectant. It protects people and animals from witches, spirits, and thunderstorms. Branches hung on New Year’s Day in farm kitchens ensure bountiful harvest for the coming year.

· Hazel or European filbert (Corylus avellana) nuts used at Halloween reveal to unmarried girls who their future husbands will be. Named for each maiden present, a row of nuts is placed among hot embers. The name of the lucky man is whispered and, if the pairing is a successful one, the nut jumps from the coals.

· Garlic (Allium sativum) is worn and/ or hung in the home to prevent bewitching, dispose of vampires and to avert the evil eye. During the times of the plague, it caught any circulating germs.

· Rosemary (Rosemarius officinalis) has many legends associated with it. Tiny bundles are tied together and hung over the cradles of babies to protect them from bad dreams. Sprigs carried in the hands have the ability to keep away witches and evil.

· Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) has a pleasant legend. It is considered the favorite and cherished herb of fairies. Furthermore, it is believed that if a young maiden places a sprig of rosemary in one shoe and a sprig of thyme in the other, she will have a vision of the man she will marry.

In closing, keep in mind the plant folklore and legends mentioned in this article are to only provide you with a Halloween treat.

OCTOBER GARDENING CALENDER

First Week of October

· Dig up gladioluses, dahlias, tubers and other tender bulbs.

· Plant budded chrysanthemums, the buds will open once planted to add color to fall landscapes. If you buy plants already in full bloom, they will not last long.

· Check your perennials some may not have survived this years heat and droughts.

· Water evergreens if needed.

· Take a soil sample of your gardens and lawn so that the results are available in time to add fertilizer or lime, which will improve or adjust soil fertility.

· Use shedding needles from pines, yews and arborvitaes as mulch around azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias and andromedas.

· Bring in your houseplants which have been living outdoors all summer. Be sure to inspect for pests before you bring them in.

Second Week of October

· Dig up and pot an herb plant or two from the herb garden. Parsley, chives, sage, thyme or scented geraniums do well all winter, if watered and set in a warm sunny window.

· Rake and add the leaves that are falling from deciduous trees to the compost pile.

· Pick bagworms from the evergreens and shrubs and destroy them. This will abolish the spring hatching of over-wintering eggs.

· Plant shrubs and divide crowded perennials.

· Prune leaves and stems of herbaceous perennials as they turn brown.

Third Week of October

· Mow the lawn continually so that it will not be matted down under heavy snow (if we have another winter like last year).

· Plant spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.). Master Gardeners are having a Bulb Workshop on Friday, Oct. 15, call 302-730-4000 to register.

· Protect broadleaf evergreens from winter damage caused by wind and sun.

· Rake and clean up rose gardens to prevent black spot and other diseases.

· Keep an eye open for reduced prices on end-of-the-season gardening tools and equipment to be used next year or to be given as gifts.

Last Week of October

· Transplant small trees after leaves have fallen.

· Secure vines to their support systems.

· Clean up garden debris and add to the compost pile.

MASTER GARDENER TIP:

Call your local County Extension Office to see what gardening workshops are offered this fall in Sussex County, 302-856-7303 and in Kent County 302-730-4000.

FALL WORKSHOPS SUSSEX COUNTY

Master Gardener workshops continue through November in Sussex Co. Workshops are free, unless noted, and are in the Carvel Center. To register, contact Tammy Schirmer at 302-856-2585 ext. 544/tammys@udel.edu or register online at http://ag.udel.edu/rec/Extension/MasterGardeners/workshopreg.html. On the list are:

Putting Your Garden to Bed – Cherie Dorfman – Tuesday, Oct. 11 at noon.

Garden Information Resources – Master Gardener Panel – Thursday, Oct. 20

at 7 p.m.

Gifts From the Garden – Tracy Mulveny – Tuesday, Nov. 15 at 1 p.m. Cost is

$5 per person. Limited to 25 participants.

FALL WORKSHOPS KENT COUNTY

Four workshops are on the schedule for Kent Co. Master Gardeners. They are free, except where noted, and will be at the Paradee Center. To register, call 302-730-4000.

Accessible Gardening – Tuesday, Oct. 4 at 1:30 p.m.

Fall and Winter Curb Appeal – Thursday, Oct. 13 at 1:30 p.m.

Preparing for Spring – Thursday, Nov. 3 at 6:30 p.m.

Make and Take a Lovely Fall Wreath Thursday, Nov. 17 from

6-8 p.m. Cost: $5. Class limited to 15.

Mail your registration and payment to

Kent Co. Master Gardeners,

69 Transportation Circle, Dover, DE 19901.

My mother-in-law has the most beautiful bed of peonies, which are a mass of white and pink blooms every May. When I go to visit, she always has a large bouquet waiting for me to take home and enjoy. The white blooms are so sweetly scented, and once in the house, their fragrance soon fills the living room.

Well, September is the month peonies must be planted and divided in order to maintain their longevity and hardiness. Once they become established in the garden border, they will bloom in May and June and make excellent fragrant cut flowers.

There are two divisions of peonies – garden, or herbaceous varieties, and tree peonies:

· Garden peonies have full bushy stems that grow two to four feet tall and range from white, yellow, cream, pink, and rose to deep red in color. The five groups – single, semi-double, double, Japanese, and anemone are distinguished by the shape of the petals.

· Tree peonies are shrub-like deciduous plants that reach four or more feet in height and produce many large flowers in May. The colors of the delicate blooms come in yellow, pink, white, rose, crimson, scarlet, apricot, salmon, purple, and peach. The center of the flowers is yellow, pink or red.

Peonies grow from tubers (underground stems). New growth develops from buds or eyes on the tuber. New or immature shoots are bright red, succulent, and easy to damage while mature shoots are dark green and shiny.

Divide and replant peonies only when they become crowded. To do this, carefully dig around and under the plants. As you dig up the clumps, be careful not to break off the root system, especially the tap roots. Wash any soil from the roots and strip off the leaves. Cut the tubers by using a sterile knife. Be sure each section has three to five eyes and a tap root is attached. Replant the tubers immediately.

When buying, look for tubers that have three to five eyes. Those with one or two eyes often rot in the ground while those with more than five eyes may fail to produce large flowers. Select colors that harmonize with your current garden.

Peonies need fertile, slightly acid (pH 6.0) well-drained soil. They do not tolerate wet feet. These plants grow best in full sun, but will tolerate shade for two to three hours each day.

Because peonies remain in the same place for many years, the garden soil needs special preparations. Spade organic matter such as compost, aged cow manure, or peat moss in the soil about two weeks before planting. Add about a handful of bone meal or a commercial fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (such as 5-10-10). Dig a hole approximately 18 inches deep for each tuber. Holes for the plants should be spaced three feet apart. Refill the holes with about half of the soil mixture, leaving the remainder of the soil at the side of the hole until planting time.

Plant a garden peony tuber with the uppermost eye not more than two inches below the soil surface. Put a little soil around the tuber and water thoroughly. Then, fill the hole with the remaining soil and press down firmly (do not pack it). To settle the tuber, water again.

When planting a tree peony tuber, fill with four or five inches of soil, covering the graft. You can recognize the graft by the ridging on the stem and the different texture of the bark. The deep planting allows the grafted section to establish its own roots in the soil. Continue to add soil and water in the planting hole, the same way you would for a garden peony.

Mulch garden and tree peonies with straw, peat moss, or evergreen needles during the winter and summer months. In winter, mulching will prevent heaving, which is the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil that pushes the plants out of the soil. During the summer, mulching around the plants helps to keep the soil moist and prevents weed growth.

So, maybe with a little luck, you can have a bouquet of peonies next May to brighten up your indoor living space or to share with a friend.

SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

First Week of September:

· Start a compost pile.

· Apply lime and fertilizer to your lawn area. It’s a good idea to have a soil test done

to know the correct amount needed.

· Space strawberry runner plants about six-inches apart. Pull out extra plants.

· Harvest vine-ripened vegetables from plants that continue to produce.

· Select a short-day variety tomato plant like “pixie” and start it indoors in a peat pot. When large enough, transplant into a three and one-half inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window in your home.

Tomatoes require six to eight hours of light daily. You will have to keep artificial light on them part of the time. Water and feed them regularly and you should have tomatoes for your Christmas dinner.

Second Week of September:

· Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses, and seed pods to decorate your holiday wreaths.

· Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.

· Dig up and divide roots now if you’re thinking about starting new peonies. You may want to use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, make sure each division has three or four buds (the small pinkish colored buds at the crown of the roots).

When planting your new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface. If you do, the plant will produce foliage, but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

· Select and prepare the site now if you are going to plant or establish a spring flowering bulb bed. Be sure there is good drainage; add three to four pounds of limestone per one hundred square feet and two to three pounds of 5-10-10 garden fertilizer.

We have a fact sheet on Spring Flowering Bulbs. If you would like one, call the Extension Office at #857-6426, #730-4000 or #856-7303.

Third Week of September:

· Plant evergreens and ground covers. To transplant needle-leaf or cone-bearing evergreens, be sure each plant has an adequate rootball.

· Clean up garden debris and add to your compost pile or turn under the vegetation, but not where you have your fall crops growing. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from September 1 through November 1.

· Bring in your Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus, place on a cool porch or cool part of your house, and do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Last Week of September:

· Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will help make weeding much easier next spring.

· Plant your spring bulbs. Depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb, for example, tulips are about five to six inches, four to seven inches for daffodils, three to four inches for hyacinths, and one and one-half to three inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulb’s greatest width.

Don’t wait for frost warnings to bring houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 degrees or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants that are brought in for pests and diseases and for repotting where needed.

MASTER GARDENER TIP:

Call your local County Extension Office to see what gardening workshops are offered this fall.