Blooming Sanseveria

Janis Greene a Dover Master Gardener reports that her Sanseveria (snake plant/mother in laws tonque plant) is blooming. “I had no idea that they ever bloomed and therefore didn’t recognize the lovely fragrance as coming from a small hidden stalk of tiny flowers, I guess it blooms when the plant is root-bound. Who knew!?! The flowers don’t last long and seem to hate sunlight, wilting right away in the extreme light. The house smells wonderful!"

Searching the net for information I found that many people have had plants for 30 years and never saw a bloom. They are native to Africa and apparently do bloom in the wild. They grow in rocky places and do not like to be over watered. They should be repotted only when the pot topples over from the weight of the plant.

GERMINATING OLD SEEDS

April is here and many of us will soon have our gardens amended and prepared for the new growing season. And if you are like me, you have seeds left over from last year, the year before and some seed packs dating back four or more years. When you have old seed packs, you have to ask yourself, “Should I plant these, throw them out or test them for quality and germination rate?” My answer would be to test them. I remember my dad testing seeds in our kitchen before he would make any decisions on their fate.

To do a germination test, count out 10 to 20 seeds. Then spread the seeds out on several layers of moistened paper towels. Carefully roll them up in the paper towels so that the seeds do not touch one another. Place the roll in a plastic bag (this keeps the moisture in), twist-tie it shut, and keep it in a warm spot. Remember to label the roll or bag with seed variety and mark the start date of the test. Then, every three or four days, carefully unroll to see what is sprouting (evidence of a root or cotyledon structures protruding from the seed.) Keep in mind, some seeds take three or more weeks to germinate. After a week has passed and no additional seeds have germinated, it is time to count the germination rate.

If you started with 20 seeds and 10 have sprouted, you have a 50% germination rate; if 5 seeds germinated from the 20, then you have a 25% germination rate. Let’s say you start with 10 seeds and only 2 have sprouted; then you have a 20% rate. If 5 of the 10 sprouted, you have a 50% germination rate. You can now decide what to do. If I had a 50% germination rate, I would still use the seeds, and just plant twice as many.

So how long are seeds good or viable? The following chart is a guideline of seed viability stored under dry, cool conditions.

Seed	Years	Seed	Years
Beans	3	Muskmelons	5
Beets	4	Mustard Greens	4
Broccoli	5	Okra	2
Cabbage	5	Parsnips	1
Cabbage, Chinese	5	Peas	3
Carrots	3	Peppers	2
Cauliflower	5	Pumpkins	4
Celeriac	5	Radishes	5
Collards	5	Rutabags	4
Corn	2	Spinach	5
Cucumbers	5	Squash	4
Eggplant	5	Tomatoes	4
Kale	5	Turnips	4
Kohlrabi	5	Turnips	4
Leeks	3	Watermelons	4
Lettuce	5

If you are like me and have retrieved your seed storage box for planting this year’s garden only to find leftover seeds that you think may have to be discarded, why not test their germination rate first? And if you are lucky, they will germinate and grow for you again this gardening season.

Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension, Delaware State University

APRIL GARDENING CALENDER

APRIL GARDENING CALENDAR

The First Half of April:

· Feed shrubs and roses -- read label directions for special instructions.

· Take a soil sample to determine the exact amount of nutrition the soil needs to grow and produce flowers and vegetables.

· Mow lawn if grass is over 2-1/2 inches tall. The ideal mowing height is two inches. Closer cutting weakens the lawn and opens it to invasion by crabgrass and other weeds. Allowing the lawn to grow too tall gives it a ragged appearance, may create problems with accumulated clippings, and will cause matting if played or trampled on.

· Prune and shape spring flowering shrubs after blossoms fade.

· Prepare garden soil for spring planting.

· Begin regular scouting program for fruit trees. Pesticides should be used only when pest populations are high enough to cause damage to plants and damage reaches the economic injury level.

For the Second Half of April:

· Finish transplanting trees and shrubs.

· Plant ground covers in those terrible spots where only weeds seem to grow. There are many to choose from--some with flowers and others with beautiful foliage.

· Plant carrot, celery, lettuce, radish, spinach, sweet corn, turnip, snap bean and parsnip seeds, if weather is favorable. Transplant tomatoes and peppers.

· Prepare beds for planting annual and perennial flowers. Consider height, plant requirements (full sun or partial shade, sandy or rich loam soil) and color in selecting varieties.

· Get your garden soil prepared for your warm season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, lima beans, and melons. Which can be planted (weather permitting) in early May.

By Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

HOW DO YOUR TOMATOES GROW

By: Maggie L. Moor-Orth

Delaware Cooperative Extension

Delaware State University

Every spring I get many calls about what variety of tomato to grow in backyard

gardens. So, I thought before tomato gardening season begins and/or we order tomato

seeds, I would write an article to provide you with information to consider when selecting

tomatores for your garden.

First of all, you have to consider how much space you have, and if you had any

previous disease problems growing tomatoes. Most tomatoes should be spaced about 2

1/2 to 3 feet apart. Varieties have either an indeterminate or determinant growing habit.

Indeterminate tomato (INDT) varieties have a vine or climbing type of plant growth.

Indeterminate types also continue to grow from their stem tips and ripen or mature over

a longer time period. This is good if you want to have tomatoes until frost and/or want to

have green tomatoes at the end of the growing season. These definitely need to be grown

with a support structure: in a cage, on a trellis, or staked.

Determinant tomato (DT) varieties have a bushy-type of plant growth. They also

ripen or mature within a specific time period. Some folks don’t think determinant

tomatoes need to be supported, but I do. I like to keep my fruit off of the soil surface

which tends to cause fungal disease on the fruit. There are also varieties, like Patio and

Pixie, that are considered a dwarf type of determinant and are ideal for container

growing.

Another item to be aware of when selecting tomato varieties are initials and

numbers that follow the names of some varieties, for example: Celebrity F1, Viva Italia

VFFNA, Early Girl VW, or Super Sweet 100 FRI, TMV, VW. The following chart

explains the initials and what disease/pest they represent.

ASC	Alternaria Stem Canker
BLS	Bacterial Leaf Spot
BS	Bacterial Speck
BW	Bacterial Wilt
EB	Early Blight
Ff	Leaf Mold
FR1 or 2	Fusarium Race 1 or 2
GLS	Gray Leaf Spot
N	Nematodes
ON	Powdery Mildew
PVY	Potato Virus Y
TMV	Tobacco Mosaic Virus
SW	Spotted Milt
SBW	Southern Bacterial Wilt
VW	Verticilium Wilt

You may ask why it’s important to select a variety that may be resistant to a

disease or pest. We only get one chance to grow tomatoes to use in our family meals

during Delaware’s growing season and most of these diseases can destroy the plant

and/or render most of the fruit inedible. In most cases, the plant will not recover.

Therefore, if in the previous growing season your tomato plants had problems with a

specific disease, then you will want to grow a variety that was bred to resist that disease.

We all have a favorite variety that we have gron or our parents have grown for years. So,

if your favorite variety is prone to a certain disease (when conditions are favorable for

that disease), and you just have to grow it, then I would say grow one or two, but [plant

other varieties resistant to the disease, that you and your family have fruit to harvest and

enjoy.

One other question I am asked is the difference between Open pollinated,

Heirloom and Hybrid varieties. Open pollinated (OP) varieties are ones that have been

grown for years and years by our parents and grandparents. They may or may not be an H

Heirloom variety. They have been selected for desirable characteristics (size, flavor,

color, leaf shape/coverage, etc.) and adapted to grow under local conditions and saved by

generations. By growing an open variety under certain conditions (isolated from other

varieties), you can save open pollinated seeds and use them year after year.

Heirloom varieties are at least 50 years, saved from generation to generation and

are open pollinated. They may or may not be available for sale from commercial garden

seed companies. They are loved for their delicious taste, color, or texture. Keep in mind,

they also may be prone to diseases and have other undersirable characteristics.

Hybrid seeds are the result of two discinct and distant parents of the same species.

Saving the seeds from a Hybrid variety is not advisable; the seed may be sterile or may

reproduce. However, if they do reproduct, the offspring may have the undesirable

characteristics from one or both parents. Hybrid seeds are developed for disease

resistance and other desirable traits. You have to purchase new seeds every year.

Open pollinated, Heirloom and Hybrid seeds not only apply to tomatoes, but most

other vegetables too. So, when purchasing seeds or plants, I hope this article will help

you make decisions or what may grow best in your garden this year.

SPRING WORKSHOP SCHEDULE-KENT COUNTY

PLANNING A VEGETABLE GARDEN
Friday, March 19,2010
Time: 6:30 pm Instructor: Beverly Gemmill
Oh joy! Spring is coming! It is time to decide what you will grow this year and how planning your garden now will help you later as you plant during the year.
We will lead you through planning your garden step by step. When you leave this class, you will have a
good start on your written garden plan. All participants should bring a composition book and a pencil.

SMALL HOME GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT
Wednesday, March 24,2010
Time: 9:30 am
OR
Thursday, March 25,2010
Time: 6:00 pm
Instructor: TomDix
Location: Modern Maturity Center, Dover Fee: $5.00
This class is aimed at the person with a small home greenhouse or someone who has always
Wanted one. Master Gardener, Tom Dix, will discuss and demonstrate the important thing to
know when setting up and using your greenhouse such as light, climate control, watering, fertilizing
and soils.
Both workshops will meet at the Modern Maturity Center AND will be the exact same workshop.

ATTRACTING SONGBIRDS AND OTHER WILDLIFE USING NATIVE PLANTS
* Monday, April 12,2010
Time: 1:00 pm Instructor: Brent Marsh
Songbird populations have been declining for years because they are losing habitat. Home gardeners can help by adding native plants to their yards and gardens. Unlike the non-native plants many of us have in our gardens, native plants provide the food for insects that then become the food for baby songbirds. Native plants are attractive and interesting additions to the garden.

CERTIFY YOUR GARDEN FOR WILDLIFE
Thursday, April 29,2010
Time: 6:30 pm Instructor: Deloris Donnelly
Do you enjoy watching the birds, butterflies and wild animals in your yard? For more than thirty five years, the National Wildlife Federation has shown people the benefits of gardening for wildlife. Learn what you must do to have your yard and garden become a certified wildlife habitat. I

THE CUTTING GARDEN
Tuesday, May 4,2010
Time: 6:30 pm
Instructors: Marion Brewington and Beverly Gemmill
So much joy can come from your own backyard cutting gardenl Learn how to plan your cutting garden, even in a small area, and what plants provide you with continuous blooms.

GARDENING IN THE SHADE
Thursday, May 13,2010
Time: 1:00 pm Instructor: Joan Parman
If you have a shady area you can grow some wonderful shade loving perennials that get more beautiful with each spring. Our Master Gardener will demonstrate how to grow the shade loving plants that will add an outstanding accent to your shady area.

Unless otherwise indicated, all workshops will be held free of charge at: University of Delaware Paradee Center, Registration is required

Make check payable: to Kent County Master Gardeners
Mail with Name,Address,Phone#, Email and workshop choice to
Kent County Master Gardeners
University of Delaware Extension Office
69 Transportation Circle
Dover, DE 19901

POTATOES

Boy, after this winter and all of the snow, we gardeners are more than anxious to get our garden soil ready for the early spring cool season plants and seeds. Unfortunately, most soils are going to be too wet for tilling and preparing a seed bed. How can we tell if our soils are too wet? Go to your garden site and scoop up a small handful of soil, put it in the palm of your hand and squeeze it; if it stays in the palm shape, it is too wet. If, when you open your hand and the soil ball falls apart, that’s good news. Your soil is dry enough to be worked.
One early spring crop that the old timers say needs to be planted by St. Patrick’s Day is potatoes. When I was growing up, planting potatoes was a real family activity.
My dad would till a small space in the garden just for the early crops. He would make a five-inch trench and we would drop in the potatoes, which my mother had cut into planting sizes.
If you are more than ready to do some gardening this spring, here are some tips on growing potatoes:
You can purchase certified seed (potato tubers) potatoes from your local garden supply stores or order them from reliable garden seed catalogs. Varieties recommended for Delaware gardeners are round superior whites – Kennebec, Haig and Katahdin; red skin potatoes - Norland and Lasoda; and russets - russet Burbank and Belrus. In seed catalogs, you may have noticed potato varieties are more than just the white flesh-colored. They come in many colors like theYukon Gold, which has yellowish-colored skin with butter-yellow colored flesh, or Rose Gold that has rosy-red skin and golden-yellow flesh. There are also shades of blue and red. An example of the red flesh is All Red or Cranberry Red, while the All blue has blue flesh. There is also a blue skin variety with pure-white flesh called Caribe. A variety that grew last year and that is going to grow again this year is a white potato called King Harry. This potato has more hairs on the leaf surface and is not a favorite of the Colorado Potato Beetle, which is a major pest to this crop. Last year, I had three plants infested with the Colorado Potato Beetle and one of the plants I handpicked the pests off to destroy the egg masses. If you are thinking about using potatoes purchased in the produce department at your local grocery store, they may not work, as they are usually treated with a sprout-inhibiting product.
As I said, when I was growing up, it was my mom’s job to cut the seed potatoes. She did this the day before planting to allow the cut edges to heal. The cut pieces should be blocky and average about two ounces (approximately two inches by two inches) and should have at least two sprouting eyes. Make sure you have an adequate amount of potato flesh surrounding the eyes because the plant will be using this stored food while sprouting.
Potatoes grow best in acid soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.0. They respond to high fertilization and frequent watering. Have your soil tested prior to the gardening season so that you can amend your soil as required. Potato plants will need an additional side dressing of fertilizer (10-10-10) when they are six-inches tall.
To plant your potatoes, dig a trench about five inches deep. Rows should be 36 inches apart. If your garden space is limited, then why not grow them in a bushel basket or two? The seed pieces should be dropped every nine to twelve inches apart in the trench. Fill in the trench with soil. After the young plants have sprouted and are approximately five inches tall, “hill” up the sides of the young plants with soil and mulch with straw. “Hilling” is the process of mounding loose soil around the plants to completely cover the developing tubers. This will help maintain soil moisture and temperature and help prevent “greening” injury of the young potatoes that may be exposed to sunlight at the soil surface. Be sure to hoe or cultivate when the potato plants are young, before rows have closed in.
Potatoes are mature and ready to harvest when the majority of the tops have died. You may use a spade or fork to dig your potatoes, but be careful not to cut or bruise them. Allow the newly dug potatoes to dry as quickly as possible and store them in a cool, dark place.
In the next week or two, when our garden soils have dried out enough to prepare a seed bed, why not consider growing some potatoes? If you would like a fact sheet on potatoes for the home garden, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office in Kent County (302) 730-4000 or (302) 857-6426, or in Sussex County, (302) 856-7303.

By: Maggie L. Moor-Orth
Delaware Cooperative Extension
Delaware State University

MARCH GARDENING CALENDER

For the first half of March:

· Finish pruning shrubs and ornamental trees, except spring flowering shrubs before growth starts. Prune spring flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, etc.), as soon as they finish flowering.

· In addition, finish pruning home fruit trees. Do not leave stubs; they usually die and become great entry ways for fungus.

· To prevent the infection of fungal spores and bacteria into the plant as a result of fresh cuts, do not prune in damp or wet weather.

· Plan your vegetable garden on paper. Use space efficiently and rotate vegetables to reduce insect and disease problems.

· Turn your compost pile or start one.

· If soil is dry enough, begin primary soil tillage.

· Add soil nutrients based on results of soil test.

· To support newly transplanted trees from spring winds, use flexible ties between rigid stakes.

· If weeds are beginning to grow in flower bulb beds, pull them by hand to prevent disturbing the bulbs and roots.

· Spray home fruit trees (apples and pears) before buds swell with dormant oil and when temperatures are not likely to drop below 40o for twenty-four hours.

· Spray peaches with Ferbam or Lime sulfur. No spray is needed for cherries or plums at this time.

· Fertilize trees, roses, shrubs and evergreens.

For the second half of March:

· Plant cool-season crops (peas, lettuce, cabbage, onions, kale, broccoli, radishes, and turnips) if weather conditions permit.

· Harden off young tender plants, even hardy varieties, before transplanting in the garden to reduce the chance of frost damage. Place them outdoors in a protected spot from the cool spring winds. Gradually reduce water and temperature to allow plants to toughen up so they will be able to tolerate their new living environment.

· If a pre-emergence weed control is going to be used on the lawn, apply it now. Please read and follow all label directions.

· Leave mulch over strawberries until the plants begin to grow. At that time, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to develop in the light.

· Prune hedges before new growth begins.

· Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with acid-type fertilizer.

For more information on any of the above, call your local Extension Office:

Sussex County - #856-7303

Kent County - #739-5205 or #697-4000