Kent County Master Gardener Workshop

Edible & Medicinal Plants: In the Wild & Your Backyard
Thursday April 26, 2012 6:30 p.m.

Did you know that some plants in your yard are edible and others have
medicinal value? In this workshop, Susan Yost, Ph.D., Educator at the Claude E. Phillips Herbarium at Delaware State University, will introduce you to native and naturalized plants of forest, fields and backyards in Delaware and tell you how
they can be used for food and medicine.

Please call 730-4000 to register
Held at the University of Delaware, Paradee Center, Dover

APRIL GARDENING CALENDER

The following is your garden calendar for April:

The First Half of April:

· Feed shrubs and roses -- read label directions for special instructions.

· Take a soil sample to determine the exact amount of nutrition the soil needs to grow and produce flowers and vegetables.

· Mow lawn if grass is over 2-1/2 inches tall. The ideal mowing height is two inches. Closer cutting weakens the lawn and opens it to invasion by crabgrass and other weeds. Allowing the lawn to grow too tall gives it a ragged appearance, may create problems with accumulated clippings, and will cause matting if played or trampled on.

· Prune and shape spring flowering shrubs after blossoms fade.

· Prepare garden soil for spring planting.

· Begin regular scouting program for fruit trees. Pesticides should be used only when pest populations are high enough to cause damage to plants and damage reaches the economic injury level.

For the Second Half of April:

· Finish transplanting trees and shrubs.

· Plant ground covers in those terrible spots where only weeds seem to grow. There are many to choose from--some with flowers and others with beautiful foliage.

· Plant carrot, celery, lettuce, radish, spinach, sweet corn, turnip, snap bean and parsnip seeds, if weather is favorable. Transplant tomatoes and peppers.

· Prepare beds for planting annual and perennial flowers. Consider height, plant requirements (full sun or partial shade, sandy or rich loam soil) and color in selecting varieties.

· Get your garden soil prepared for your warm season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, lima beans, and melons. Which can be planted (weather permitting) in early May.

· Attend the Kent County Master Gardener Scholarship Plant Sale on Saturday, April 28, 2012 from 8:00am to 12 noon, on the campus at Delaware State University.

SOIL TESTING

It is a good idea to have your soil tested when starting a new planting area,
or if you are new to this region. It is particularly a good idea when planting a vegatable garden. Below is a link to soil test information.

General Program Information | UD Soil Testing Program | College of Agriculture & Natural Resources |

MARCH GARDENING CALENDER

For the first half of March:

· Finish pruning shrubs and ornamental trees, except spring flowering shrubs, before growth starts. Prune spring flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, etc.) as soon as they finish flowering.

· Finish pruning home fruit trees. Do not leave stubs; they usually die and become great entryways for fungus.

· To prevent infection from fungal spores and bacteria, do not prune plants in damp or wet weather.

· Plan your vegetable garden on paper. Use spaces efficiently and rotate vegetables from last years plan to reduce insect and disease problems.

· Turn your compost pile or start a new one. For information on starting a compost pile, call your local Cooperative Extension office.

· Begin primary soil tillage if soil is dry enough.

· Add soil amendments based on results of soil test.

· Use flexible ties between rigid stakes to support newly transplanted trees and to protect them from spring winds.

· Pull weeds by hand to prevent disturbing the bulbs and roots if weeds are beginning to grow in flower bulb beds.

· Spray home fruit trees (apples and pears) with dormant oil before buds swell and when temperatures are not likely to drop below 40^o for twenty-four hours. Read label directions

· Spray peach trees with Ferbam or Lime Sulfur. No spray is needed for cherry or plum trees at this time.

· Fertilize trees, roses, shrubs and evergreens.

For the second half of March:

· Plant cool-season crops (peas, lettuce, cabbage, onions, kale, broccoli, radishes, and turnips) if weather conditions permit.

· Harden-off young tender plants, even hardy varieties, before transplanting in the garden to reduce the chance of frost damage. Place them outdoors in a protected spot from the cool spring winds. Gradually reduce water and temperature to allow plants to toughen up so they will be able to tolerate their new living environment.

· Apply a pre-emergence weed control on the lawn now if you are going to use it. Please read and follow all label directions.

· Leave mulch over strawberries until the plants begin to grow. At that time, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to develop in the light.

· Prune hedges before new growth begins.

· Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with acid-type fertilizer.

FEBRUARY GARDEN CALENDER

For the First Half of the Month:

· Order seeds through catalogs to take advantage of early-bird discounts.

· Leave mulch on perennials continually; unfortunately, there are probably more cold days ahead.

· Prune ornamental plants like oak, yew, pine, juniper, and arborvitae to shape. Remove dead or unattractive parts of the tree such as branches and crotches that have crossed and sprouts or suckers growing at or near the base of the trunk. Also, remove branches broken due to winter winds and storms.

· Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous landscape plants.

· Watch for signs of growth from early spring bulbs, and when foliage is one-inch high, remove mulch gradually.

· Read seed packages for planting instructions. Don’t start garden plants indoors too early.

For the Second Half of the Month:

· Read gardening books to get garden/landscape ideas for spring and early summer.

· Order shrubs for spring planting.

· Order perennial plants and bulbs such as shasta daisies, gladiolus, and lilies to be used as cut flowers this summer.

· Prune grapevines while they are still dormant and use the pruned pieces to make wreaths to decorate your home or give as gifts.

· Examine houseplants. Weak, thin or soft growth may be an indication of insufficient light or high temperatures.

· Plan vegetable, perennial and herb gardens on paper. Compare last year’s notes to make improvements or adjustments in the plot size and planting locations.

JANUARY GARDENING CALENDER

For the First Half of the Month:

· On warm days, go outside and check your perennials and bulbs to see if they have been heaved out of the ground by freezing and thawing of the soil. If so, press down firmly and cover with at least two inches of organic mulch.

· Thoroughly check your houseplants for pests. If you find any, treat these immediately before populations get too high.

· Another common problem of houseplants this time of year is the low humidity that is in most homes during the winter. One way to increase the humidity is to place plants over, but not in, trays which have water in them.

· In addition, low-light levels in your home may be causing some problems and may need to be adjusted. Move plants that normally do best on the north side of the house to an east window. For those plants that are ordinarily in the east windows, move them to a south location.

· Review your vegetable garden plans for the upcoming season.

· If you bought a live ball-rooted Christmas tree, remember to water it. It can be planted outside as long as the soil can be worked.

For the Second Half of the Month of January:

· Sit down on cold, snowy, or rainy days with newly received garden seed catalogs. Compare new varieties. An important consideration is improved pest and/or disease resistant seeds over older varieties.

· Pull out and check your notes from last year’s garden. Reorder the varieties that you had success with and any new ones you may want to try.

· Start a pot of shamrocks to have ready by St. Patrick’s Day in March.

· Start pansy plants from seeds indoors. They should be ready to transplant outdoors in mid-March to bloom with spring tulips and daffodils.

· Begin bringing in the pots of bulbs prepared for forcing last fall. Place in a warm

60-65^oF shaded location. Move to a sunny spot when you see green leaves begin to show.

· Begin dormant pruning of fruit trees and grape vines now; try to finish before March.

· Apply horticultural oil sprays to kill over-wintering mites, aphids, and scale. Use this oil on deciduous plants and hardy evergreens, but not on needle-leaved species. Read and follow label directions.

· Spray oils when temperatures are above 40^oF, but not within 24 hours of a freeze (watch the local weather stations for this information). Read and follow all label directions.

· Check with your local county extension office for upcoming Master Gardener

workshops on Gardening in Delaware.

HOUSEPLANTS

Boy, wasn’t last week beautiful! But, unfortunately, winter is going to be around for another eight weeks yet. If you are getting some winter blahs, why not take advantage of some of the great house plant sales going on in local garden supply stores.

Or just treat yourself and your home to a new houseplant. First of all, before you leave the store with your new plant, be sure to ask the salesperson the name of your new plant so that you can look up care requirements from a house plant book.

The following are some considerations you should think about before and after you purchase a new houseplant: The most important factor in houseplant care is the light requirement. Study the light levels in your home or in the room where the plant will be living. Are you going to be displaying your plant in a sunroom or in hallway? Will the plant be next to a window or in a far corner away from a light source? Are you planning on providing an artificial light source?

Match the plant’s needs to your personal schedule. Certain plants require very little care, while others are very high. In addition, some plants can survive and grow well on an irregular watering schedule. Consider room and furniture dimensions. What size plant do you need? What is the maximum growth and height the plant will reach? Start out with the healthiest plants you can find. Go to a reputable nursery or florist. Examine the plants carefully. Plants should have only a few brown-edged leaves and only a few leaves should have been trimmed.

The plants should be full and bushy, with small spaces between leaves. Large gaps between new leaves can be an indication of over-fertilizing and crowded to induce rapid growth, or that it has spent some time under improper lighting conditions.

Inspect the leaves and stem joints on the plant for any evidence of insects or diseases. Bringing home an infected plant may be hazardous to any plant you already have. Flowering plants should have many buds that are just beginning to open. Plants in full bloom may soon lose much of their loveliness. More importantly, it may be impossible to get the plant to bloom again unless conditions are perfect.

Plants need to adjust to their new surrounding and may even go into a mild shock. Getting the houseplant use to its new home may take several weeks. Pay close attention to the plant’s needs. Try to have similar light conditions. Keep the plant moderately moist during this period, and do not allow it to dry out. To water your new houseplant, water thoroughly each time and discard the excess water from the drainage saucer. Once the plant has adjusted to its new living conditions, try not to move it.

These few points will help you select plants suited to your schedule, environment, and keep your plants healthier longer.