TOMATO PROBLEMS

My springs are so busy that I usually do not get my warm season garden area tilled and the tomatoes and peppers planted until the last week of May. Which means those tomatoes will not be ripening until the end of July and into the first of August. Not only are mine ripening, but calls from the public with tomato problems let me know theirs are also ripening. Therefore, I thought a column on tomato problems might help many of you, too.

BACTERIAL SPECK: The fruit and leaves will have many tiny (pinhead size) and slightly raised brown-black specks. If you look closely on the fruit, these specks are bordered in white. On leaves, the border will be yellow colored. This problem is often mis-identified as bacterial spot.

Bacterial speck thrives in temperatures of 65° to 75°F that follow heavy rains. The bacteria overwinter in the soil and may be carried on tomato seed. When the first signs of this disease appear, it is time to control. Use a fungicide spray containing maneb or basic copper sulfate. And, like all fungicide applications, repeat sprays as long as weather conditions are favorable for the disease. Additional means to control this problem are: avoid overhead watering, do not work in wet plants, and do not save seeds from infected fruit.

BLOSSOM END ROT: This is caused by sudden changes in soil moisture or lack of calcium in the plant. It appears as a sunken, dark brown or black leather spot. To reduce this problem, provide a normal supply of moisture and/or lime to the soil to a pH of 6.5-7-0.

HORNWORMS: These fat green or brown worms, up to five inches long with white diagonal stripes, have a red or black “horn” that projects from the rear end. They eat leaves and fruit, leaving only midribs.

Hand pick the worms or use a chemical control to reduce hornworms. If you scout for eggs, look for small, smooth, round and light green-colored single eggs laid on tomato plant leaves.

Remember, upon discovering this pest, if its back is covered with many little white cocoon-like objects, don’t destroy them. These are a result of a beneficial wasp laying her eggs on the hornworm and this worm’s days are numbered.

LIGHT BLIGHT: This is caused by a fungus. Bluish-gray, water-soaked patches appear on leaves and stems. During humid weather, a white downy mold grows on the lower surface of the leaves.

Grayish-green, water-soaked spots appear on the fruit. These turn dark brown, become wrinkled and cork-like. Dying plants have an unpleasant odor. Use a fungicide and remove all plant debris from your garden after harvest. This will help reduce late blight.

FRUIT CRACKS: Fruit cracks occur during rainy periods when temperatures are relatively high (above 90^o), especially when rains follow a long dry period. Also, tomatoes exposed to the sun develop more cracks than those well-covered with foliage.

Lastly, remember to read and follow all label directions.

I hope this article will help you to get to enjoy your first ripe tomatoes of this gardening season.