DECEMBER-JANUARY GARDENING CALENDER

First week of December:

o Collect pine cones, old bird nests, any remaining seed heads, etc. to be used in making wreaths and other holiday decorations.

o Spray seed heads and dried flowers with hair spray to keep them intact.

o Clean and sanitize (mixture of bleach and water can be used) emptied seed flats before storing so that they will be ready when needed in the early spring.

o Change the oil and do routine maintenance on your outdoor power equipment, such as rotor tillers and lawn mowers that use oil in their engines. Remember to recycle this used oil.

Second week of December:

o       Check stored dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms; if sprouting, move to a cooler location. If they appear to be shriveling, rewrap them using a ventilated plastic bag. If there are signs of molding, change their environment; this is usually the result of moisture.

o       After the ground freezes thoroughly, mulch azaleas, rhododendron and camellias. These acid-loving plants prefer acid-loving materials such as oak leaves or pine needles. If you do not have either of these, any mixture of dried leaves will do.

o       Scout your landscape for the small buff or yellowish velvet gypsy moth egg cases attached to trees, stones, walls, logs and other outdoor objects, including outdoor household articles. Pick off and destroy them.

Third week of December:

o       Prune fruit trees anytime this winter. Keep in mind, it is easier on the tree if the temperature is 45F and above.

Last week in December:

o       Fertilize peach and apple trees anytime after the leaves drop and before spring growth.

o       Your holiday tree has several good uses. Place branches over spring flowering bulbs and/or perennial flower beds to help prevent heaving damage caused by the ground freezing and thawing. Branches placed next to a bird feeder provide shelter for birds.

First half of January:

§         On warm days, go outside and check your perennials and bulbs to see if they have been heaved out of the ground. If any heaving is evident, press down firmly and cover with at least two inches of organic mulch.

§         A problem with houseplants this time of year is the low humidity in most homes during the winter. Place plants over but not in trays that have water in them.

§         Low light levels in your home may be causing problems with your houseplants. Those that normally do best on the north side of the house, move to an east window. For those plants that are ordinarily in the east windows, move to a south location.

Second half of January:

§         Start pansy plants from seeds indoors. They should be ready to transplant outdoors in mid-March to bloom with spring tulips and daffodils.

§         Begin dormant pruning of fruit trees and grapevines now and try to finish them before March.

§         Winter is the ideal time to apply horticultural oil sprays to kill overwintering mites, aphids and scale. Use this oil on deciduous plants and hardy evergreens but not on needle-leafed species. Spray horticultural oils when temperatures are about 40F but not within 24 hr. of a freeze (watch the local weather stations for this information). Read and follow all label directions.

WINTERIZING PETS HOME

We have one cat named “Kitty,” but my dearest friends Susan and Rick, have many cats and a couple of dogs that live outdoors.  We are busy now preparing our pets’ homes for the upcoming winter’s bitter cold and wet conditions.  We all need to protect our pets from the harsh winter winds, colder temperatures, and the normal rain, sleet, and snow before winter conditions are here.

            When the thermometer drops abruptly, do not leave cats or dogs outside.  Old, very young and shorthaired pets should never be left outdoors.

            Wind chill is more harmful to your pet than temperature.  Because it takes a lot of energy to keep warm, outdoor pets should be fed more in the winter.  Also, check the water dish often to make sure the water has not frozen.

            In addition, doghouses should be dry, draft-free and big enough for the animal to go inside and lie down.  The floor should be raised a few inches off the ground and covered with straw or cedar shavings.  Place the entrance away from the wind and cover it with burlap or an old useable rug.

            Warm engines in parked cars and trucks entice cats.  To avoid injuring your pet or a neighbor’s, before starting your engine, bang on the vehicle’s hood to scare the cats away.

            Pets that walk on sidewalks which have been treated with salt or chemicals to melt ice and snow can burn the pads on their feet.  Therefore, when they enter your home, wipe their feet with a damp paper towel or cloth before they have a chance to lick them and burn their mouths.

            These few suggestions won’t require much of your time, but will help you keep your well-loved pets warm and cozy all winter long—no matter how windy it may be, how cold it gets or how much snow falls.

NOVEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

For the First Week of November:

·        Plant remainder of spring flowering bulbs.

·         Pull up diseased-free annuals and add to compost pile along with leaves and leftover garden material.

·        Cut back and mulch perennials.  Mulching will insulate them from the winter cold, and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.

·        Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc.  Wash away soil; dry, label and place in a bag or box; and cover with sphagnum, moss, saw dust, or perlite.  Store in a cool, dry place.

The Second Week of November:

·        Pot amaryllis to have them bloom by winter.

·        Drain and bring in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.

·        Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.

·        Clean up garden and plant cover crop to improve existing soil condition.

·        Prevent mice and rabbits from damaging young trees by wrapping the base of the trunks 18 inches high with screening.

·        Cut back roses 18 to 20 inches and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.

The Third Week of November:

·        Fertilize shade and peach trees.

·        Cut leaf material down to ground level after frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables like asparagus and rhubarb.

·        Mulch evergreens.

·        Store apples or pears separately from vegetables.  These fruits give off a gas that speeds the ripening and breakdown of vegetables and that also changes their flavors.

·        Water all trees and shrubs thoroughly every week until the ground freezes to prevent winter windburn.

The Last Week of November:

·        Cut chrysanthemum stems back to ground level after they have stopped blooming. Add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.

·        Collect grapevines for making wreaths after the leaves have fallen in the woods.

·        While in the woods, collect nuts, old bird nests, and pine cones to be used for decorating.

·        Pay careful attention to houseplants throughout the winter.

·        Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.

SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

First week in September:
• Have soil tested to determine the amount of lime and fertilizer required and apply to lawn area.
• Space strawberry runner plants about six inches apart. Pull out extra plants.
• Start tomato plant indoors in a peat pot. Select a short-day variety such as ‘Pixie.’ When large enough, transplant into 3 ½ -inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window. Water and feed it regularly, and tomatoes will be ready for Christmas dinner.

Second Week:
• Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses and seed pods to decorate holiday wreaths.
• Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.
• Start new begonias by digging and dividing roots. Use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, each division should have three or four buds (the small pinkish-colored buds at the crown of the roots). When planting new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface; otherwise, the plant will produce foliage but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

Third Week:
• Clean up garden debris and add to compost pile, or turn under vegetation. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from Sept. 1 through Nov. 1.
• Take in Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus and place on a cool porch or cool part of the house. Do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Final Week:
• Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will make weeding much easier next spring.
• When planting spring bulbs, the depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb; for example, tulips are about 5-6 inches; for daffodils, 5-7 inches; 3-4 inches for hyacinths; and 1 ½ -3 inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulbs’ greatest width.
• Take poinsettia inside. It is best to repot into a similar but slightly larger container, using a regular commercial potting soil. Place in a warm sunny window.
• Don’t wait for frost warnings to take houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 deg. or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants for pests and diseases and repot if needed.

AUGUST GARDENING CALENDER

First week of August:

v     Now is the ideal time to take pictures and plan for next year’s vegetable and flower gardens.

v     Order your spring flowering bulbs now.

v     Check your garden plants, shrubs, flowers and trees for diseases and insect pests.

v     Begin planning and planting your fall vegetables, such as lettuce, radishes, kale, spinach, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and peas.

Mid-August:

v     Apply a second treatment of lawn insecticide for grub control or use milky spore dust, a bacteria that will attack more than 40 species of white grubs; this can be applied anytime.

v     Collect materials for dried flower arrangements, including weeds, flowers, marsh grasses and foliage.

v     Prepare lawn or lawn areas that are going to be seeded.

v     Feed roses for the last time.

v     Check azaleas if they are beginning to look pale green to yellow. This is called chloritic. Check soil pH. These acid-loving plants need to be fed.

Late August:

v     Grapes that are ripening now perish easily so keep refrigerated after harvesting.

v     Inspect trunks and branches of dogwoods and other trees for injured bark or fine dust pushed from burrows in trunks by borers.

v     Fertilize fall vegetable garden plants.

v     Plant new lawns or reseed bare spots in old lawns. This can be done until Sept. 30 in Delaware. If it’s dry, be sure to water newly seeded lawns every day.

July Gardening Calender

First week:

·        Feed roses.

·        Watch for mites on roses, shrubs, trees and ground covers.

·        Control Japanese beetles on roses, crape myrtle, grapes and other host plants. Keep in mind, traps attract beetles, so hang them away from the plant you want to protect.

·        Harvest and hang herbs before they go to bloom. Tie in little bunches and hang in a ventilated warm space to cure. After thoroughly dried, put in sealed jars for winter use.

Second week:

·        Pinch back chrysanthemums for the last time.

·        Deadhead rhododendrons to increase next year’s flowers. Remember to remove only spent flower heads. Do not damage newly expanded leaves.

·        Keep all newly planted and shrubs watered; soak thoroughly once a week, either mornings or early evenings.

·        Increase the mowing heights on your lawn mower during dry, hot summer days.

·        Prepare to harvest onions. When seedpods start to form, turn tops down and allow another two weeks for the onions to ripen before harvesting. Dry harvested onions in the shade before storing.

Third week:

·        Check tomatoes for late blight and fruit for hornworms. Treat with a product labeled for that purpose. Handpick hornworms and destroy them.

·        Water shrubs and trees planted this year, if necessary.

·        Harvest vine-ripened fruits.

Last week:

·        Continue efforts to control Japanese beetles and other garden pests.

·        Divide bearded iris when clumps are too large.

Tips for Watering Garden and Landscape Plants

Sprinklers

            When using sprinklers, keep the water pattern even by moving the sprinkler frequently and overlapping about one-half of each pattern.  Place oscillating sprinklers higher than the plants to prevent water from being diverted by plant leaves.  Do not apply water faster than the soil can absorb it.  Be sure the sprinkler is not watering the sidewalk, street, or any other paved surface.

Soaker hoses

            There is a variety of special soaker hoses available.  These can reduce water-loss due to evaporation and run-off and generally do not cost more than normal garden hoses.  Perforated plastic hoses or soaker hoses should be placed with holes facing downward along one side of the crop row or underneath mulch.  Water will slowly soak in the soil without wetting foliage, thus decreasing evaporation and the risk of foliage-fungal diseases.

Trickle or drip irrigation

            Trickle or drip irrigation is very efficient since it applies water to each plant’s root zone at a rate consistent with its moisture requirements.  It can reduce water use by as much as 50% to 80% compared to overhead irrigation.  Another advantage of this system is that foliage stays dry, reducing the potential for foliage disease problems.

           

IT IS BEST to water early in the morning and then water only when needed.  When watering, fill the entire root area and then allow the soil to partially dry out before the next watering.  The speed of drying depends on the type of plant, the plant size, the type of soil and weather conditions (sunny and windy conditions dry faster).

           

            A small or newly established plant will need watering every few days to one week.  Since seeds and seedlings should never be allowed to dry, they need more frequent watering.  A vegetable garden should be watered when the soil within one inch of the surface feels dry to the touch.  Once plants are established, watering may be frequent to encourage the roots to grow deeper.  This can be done by gradually extending the length of time between watering.

            In closing, to avoid wasting our valuable natural resources, it is very important to provide the correct amount and proper method of watering to ensure healthy vigorous plants.

           

JUNE GARDENING CALENDER

First week of June:

Ø      Check your bedding plants; remove old flower heads to prolong the blooming period. Also, pinch mums for bushier plants.

Ø      Make another planting of vegetables, such as sweet corn and snap beans.

Ø      Thin out vegetable plantings, for instance, beets and lettuce.

Ø      Feed your roses every month until early August with ¼ cup of 10-10-10 per plant.

Second week of June:

Ø      Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming is finished.

Ø      Spray your mimosa and honey locust for webworms. Look for small clumps of leaves tied together with silk threads scattered over the tree. Upon closer examination, the upper surface of the leaves are skeletonized. The leaves turn brown and die, which will make the tree look as if it has been scorched by a fire.

Ø      Take care of your newly planted trees and shrubs. They should receive a thorough soaking each week. Mulch to conserve moisture.

Third week of June:

Ø      Control aphids and other pests on vegetables by removing, spraying or washing.

Ø      Place cages or stakes to support growing tomato plants. Cages or trellises work well for growing cucumbers, too.

Ø      Be careful trimming grass around young trees and shrubs when using trimmers. The young tender bark on these plants can be easily broken, resulting in injury to the water-transporting tissue and creating openings for insects and disease to enter.

Last week of June:

Ø      Continue spraying your roses and fruit trees.

Ø      Check your ornamentals for scale insects; these need to be treated if present.

Ø      Mid to late June is a great time to start new plants from soft wood cuttings of shrubs, such as azalea, spirea, boxwood, camellia, hydrangea, etc.

Ø      Mow and fertilize strawberries after fruiting.

DELAWARE FRESH PRODUCE

During the month of May and early June, many of the Farmers Markets and on Farm

Markets throughout the state of Delaware will be opening, and farmers will be bringing their fresh produce for many of us to purchase. How lucky we are, because meeting and getting to know our farmers means we know our food. Buying local ensures we have really fresh food and a great way to keep our small farmers in business.

It is important to remember that vegetables are usually at their best quality and price at

the peak of their season. Purchasing produce when in season also ensures its freshness.

Always check the characteristic signs of freshness: crispness, uniform color, firmness, blemish free and dryness. The difference in these qualities means the difference in price and quality grades furnished by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). Equally important to remember is that vegetables grow in a great variety and provide vitamins and minerals.

Because fresh vegetables have individual characteristics and values, there are no set rules

for buying them. Personal experience is probably the best teacher.

However, the following list is designed as a handy reference when purchasing certain

vegetables:

Beans (Snap): Look for fresh, bright appearance with good color. Purchase young,

tender beans with pods that are firm and crisp. Thick, tough fibrous pods indicate
over-maturity.

Beets: Should be firm with a deep red color, and have a round taproot. In most cases

beets are sold in a bunch with tops attached. The condition of the tops is a good judge of

their freshness. Avoid wilted and flabby beets.

Broccoli: Look for a compact cluster of flowers that is firm, green and sometimes has a

purplish cast. Avoid yellow-opened buds or wilted clusters.

Carrots: Should be well-colored, firm, well-formed and smooth. The tops, if attached,

should be fresh and have a good green color.

Corn: Pick ears that are well covered with plump, but not too mature kernels. Husks

should be green and the silk-ends should be free of decay or worm damage.

Cucumbers: Look for a completely firm, well-developed good green-colored fruit.

Avoid overgrown, large-in-diameter, withered and dull green-colored cucumbers.

Peppers: Look for peppers with a deep characteristic color (peppers come in a variety of

colors like: purple, green, yellow, white, orange and red), glossy sheen, firm-walled, and

relatively heavy weight. Avoid a pepper that is wilted or soft.

Potatoes: Potatoes should be firm, smooth, free of blemishes and sprouts, and free of the

green discoloration under the skin (sunburn). Avoid potatoes with large cuts, or that are

shriveled, bruised and/or decayed.

Squash (summer): Look for somewhat young, small, firm, glossy, blemish and pit-free

skin, and tender fruit.

Tomatoes: Look for a smooth, firm (but not hard), well ripened fruit, with a deep color,

and reasonably blemish free.

Remember, Delaware vegetable producers will be harvesting freshly grown products soon.

Therefore, buy when vegetables are in season; the prices will be more reasonable.

Buy only what you can eat or store for two to five days (root vegetables can be stored

longer). Handle produce carefully because vegetables bruise easily. At the point of sale, you are the best judge of vegetable quality. And don’t forget some fresh flowers too.

Enjoy Delaware’s best and remember: Know your farm; you’ll know your food. You can

find a list of local Delaware Farmers Markets on the Delaware Department of Agriculture’s website at     http://dda.delaware.gov/marketing/DE_FRMVENS.shtml.

Kent County Master Gardener Workshop

Edible & Medicinal Plants: In the Wild & Your Backyard
Thursday April 26, 2012 6:30 p.m.

Did you know that some plants in your yard are edible and others have
medicinal value? In this workshop, Susan Yost, Ph.D., Educator at the Claude E. Phillips Herbarium at Delaware State University, will introduce you to native and naturalized plants of forest, fields and backyards in Delaware and tell you how
they can be used for food and medicine.

Please call 730-4000 to register
Held at the University of Delaware, Paradee Center, Dover

APRIL GARDENING CALENDER

The following is your garden calendar for April:

The First Half of April:

· Feed shrubs and roses -- read label directions for special instructions.

· Take a soil sample to determine the exact amount of nutrition the soil needs to grow and produce flowers and vegetables.

· Mow lawn if grass is over 2-1/2 inches tall. The ideal mowing height is two inches. Closer cutting weakens the lawn and opens it to invasion by crabgrass and other weeds. Allowing the lawn to grow too tall gives it a ragged appearance, may create problems with accumulated clippings, and will cause matting if played or trampled on.

· Prune and shape spring flowering shrubs after blossoms fade.

· Prepare garden soil for spring planting.

· Begin regular scouting program for fruit trees. Pesticides should be used only when pest populations are high enough to cause damage to plants and damage reaches the economic injury level.

For the Second Half of April:

· Finish transplanting trees and shrubs.

· Plant ground covers in those terrible spots where only weeds seem to grow. There are many to choose from--some with flowers and others with beautiful foliage.

· Plant carrot, celery, lettuce, radish, spinach, sweet corn, turnip, snap bean and parsnip seeds, if weather is favorable. Transplant tomatoes and peppers.

· Prepare beds for planting annual and perennial flowers. Consider height, plant requirements (full sun or partial shade, sandy or rich loam soil) and color in selecting varieties.

· Get your garden soil prepared for your warm season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, lima beans, and melons. Which can be planted (weather permitting) in early May.

· Attend the Kent County Master Gardener Scholarship Plant Sale on Saturday, April 28, 2012 from 8:00am to 12 noon, on the campus at Delaware State University.

SOIL TESTING

It is a good idea to have your soil tested when starting a new planting area,
or if you are new to this region. It is particularly a good idea when planting a vegatable garden. Below is a link to soil test information.

General Program Information | UD Soil Testing Program | College of Agriculture & Natural Resources |

MARCH GARDENING CALENDER

For the first half of March:

· Finish pruning shrubs and ornamental trees, except spring flowering shrubs, before growth starts. Prune spring flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, etc.) as soon as they finish flowering.

· Finish pruning home fruit trees. Do not leave stubs; they usually die and become great entryways for fungus.

· To prevent infection from fungal spores and bacteria, do not prune plants in damp or wet weather.

· Plan your vegetable garden on paper. Use spaces efficiently and rotate vegetables from last years plan to reduce insect and disease problems.

· Turn your compost pile or start a new one. For information on starting a compost pile, call your local Cooperative Extension office.

· Begin primary soil tillage if soil is dry enough.

· Add soil amendments based on results of soil test.

· Use flexible ties between rigid stakes to support newly transplanted trees and to protect them from spring winds.

· Pull weeds by hand to prevent disturbing the bulbs and roots if weeds are beginning to grow in flower bulb beds.

· Spray home fruit trees (apples and pears) with dormant oil before buds swell and when temperatures are not likely to drop below 40^o for twenty-four hours. Read label directions

· Spray peach trees with Ferbam or Lime Sulfur. No spray is needed for cherry or plum trees at this time.

· Fertilize trees, roses, shrubs and evergreens.

For the second half of March:

· Plant cool-season crops (peas, lettuce, cabbage, onions, kale, broccoli, radishes, and turnips) if weather conditions permit.

· Harden-off young tender plants, even hardy varieties, before transplanting in the garden to reduce the chance of frost damage. Place them outdoors in a protected spot from the cool spring winds. Gradually reduce water and temperature to allow plants to toughen up so they will be able to tolerate their new living environment.

· Apply a pre-emergence weed control on the lawn now if you are going to use it. Please read and follow all label directions.

· Leave mulch over strawberries until the plants begin to grow. At that time, the mulch must be removed to allow leaves to develop in the light.

· Prune hedges before new growth begins.

· Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons with acid-type fertilizer.

FEBRUARY GARDEN CALENDER

For the First Half of the Month:

· Order seeds through catalogs to take advantage of early-bird discounts.

· Leave mulch on perennials continually; unfortunately, there are probably more cold days ahead.

· Prune ornamental plants like oak, yew, pine, juniper, and arborvitae to shape. Remove dead or unattractive parts of the tree such as branches and crotches that have crossed and sprouts or suckers growing at or near the base of the trunk. Also, remove branches broken due to winter winds and storms.

· Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous landscape plants.

· Watch for signs of growth from early spring bulbs, and when foliage is one-inch high, remove mulch gradually.

· Read seed packages for planting instructions. Don’t start garden plants indoors too early.

For the Second Half of the Month:

· Read gardening books to get garden/landscape ideas for spring and early summer.

· Order shrubs for spring planting.

· Order perennial plants and bulbs such as shasta daisies, gladiolus, and lilies to be used as cut flowers this summer.

· Prune grapevines while they are still dormant and use the pruned pieces to make wreaths to decorate your home or give as gifts.

· Examine houseplants. Weak, thin or soft growth may be an indication of insufficient light or high temperatures.

· Plan vegetable, perennial and herb gardens on paper. Compare last year’s notes to make improvements or adjustments in the plot size and planting locations.