DECEMBER-JANUARY GARDENING CALENDER

First week of December:

o Collect pine cones, old bird nests, any remaining seed heads, etc. to be used in making wreaths and other holiday decorations.

o Spray seed heads and dried flowers with hair spray to keep them intact.

o Clean and sanitize (mixture of bleach and water can be used) emptied seed flats before storing so that they will be ready when needed in the early spring.

o Change the oil and do routine maintenance on your outdoor power equipment, such as rotor tillers and lawn mowers that use oil in their engines. Remember to recycle this used oil.

Second week of December:

o       Check stored dahlia tubers and gladiolus corms; if sprouting, move to a cooler location. If they appear to be shriveling, rewrap them using a ventilated plastic bag. If there are signs of molding, change their environment; this is usually the result of moisture.

o       After the ground freezes thoroughly, mulch azaleas, rhododendron and camellias. These acid-loving plants prefer acid-loving materials such as oak leaves or pine needles. If you do not have either of these, any mixture of dried leaves will do.

o       Scout your landscape for the small buff or yellowish velvet gypsy moth egg cases attached to trees, stones, walls, logs and other outdoor objects, including outdoor household articles. Pick off and destroy them.

Third week of December:

o       Prune fruit trees anytime this winter. Keep in mind, it is easier on the tree if the temperature is 45F and above.

Last week in December:

o       Fertilize peach and apple trees anytime after the leaves drop and before spring growth.

o       Your holiday tree has several good uses. Place branches over spring flowering bulbs and/or perennial flower beds to help prevent heaving damage caused by the ground freezing and thawing. Branches placed next to a bird feeder provide shelter for birds.

First half of January:

§         On warm days, go outside and check your perennials and bulbs to see if they have been heaved out of the ground. If any heaving is evident, press down firmly and cover with at least two inches of organic mulch.

§         A problem with houseplants this time of year is the low humidity in most homes during the winter. Place plants over but not in trays that have water in them.

§         Low light levels in your home may be causing problems with your houseplants. Those that normally do best on the north side of the house, move to an east window. For those plants that are ordinarily in the east windows, move to a south location.

Second half of January:

§         Start pansy plants from seeds indoors. They should be ready to transplant outdoors in mid-March to bloom with spring tulips and daffodils.

§         Begin dormant pruning of fruit trees and grapevines now and try to finish them before March.

§         Winter is the ideal time to apply horticultural oil sprays to kill overwintering mites, aphids and scale. Use this oil on deciduous plants and hardy evergreens but not on needle-leafed species. Spray horticultural oils when temperatures are about 40F but not within 24 hr. of a freeze (watch the local weather stations for this information). Read and follow all label directions.

WINTERIZING PETS HOME

We have one cat named “Kitty,” but my dearest friends Susan and Rick, have many cats and a couple of dogs that live outdoors.  We are busy now preparing our pets’ homes for the upcoming winter’s bitter cold and wet conditions.  We all need to protect our pets from the harsh winter winds, colder temperatures, and the normal rain, sleet, and snow before winter conditions are here.

            When the thermometer drops abruptly, do not leave cats or dogs outside.  Old, very young and shorthaired pets should never be left outdoors.

            Wind chill is more harmful to your pet than temperature.  Because it takes a lot of energy to keep warm, outdoor pets should be fed more in the winter.  Also, check the water dish often to make sure the water has not frozen.

            In addition, doghouses should be dry, draft-free and big enough for the animal to go inside and lie down.  The floor should be raised a few inches off the ground and covered with straw or cedar shavings.  Place the entrance away from the wind and cover it with burlap or an old useable rug.

            Warm engines in parked cars and trucks entice cats.  To avoid injuring your pet or a neighbor’s, before starting your engine, bang on the vehicle’s hood to scare the cats away.

            Pets that walk on sidewalks which have been treated with salt or chemicals to melt ice and snow can burn the pads on their feet.  Therefore, when they enter your home, wipe their feet with a damp paper towel or cloth before they have a chance to lick them and burn their mouths.

            These few suggestions won’t require much of your time, but will help you keep your well-loved pets warm and cozy all winter long—no matter how windy it may be, how cold it gets or how much snow falls.

NOVEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

For the First Week of November:

·        Plant remainder of spring flowering bulbs.

·         Pull up diseased-free annuals and add to compost pile along with leaves and leftover garden material.

·        Cut back and mulch perennials.  Mulching will insulate them from the winter cold, and cutting them back will give them a tidy appearance.

·        Dig up dahlias, caladiums, gladiolus, etc.  Wash away soil; dry, label and place in a bag or box; and cover with sphagnum, moss, saw dust, or perlite.  Store in a cool, dry place.

The Second Week of November:

·        Pot amaryllis to have them bloom by winter.

·        Drain and bring in garden hoses and sprinklers to avoid freezing damage.

·        Transplant trees and shrubs after leaves have dropped.

·        Clean up garden and plant cover crop to improve existing soil condition.

·        Prevent mice and rabbits from damaging young trees by wrapping the base of the trunks 18 inches high with screening.

·        Cut back roses 18 to 20 inches and mulch heavily to give them protection and help them survive the winter.

The Third Week of November:

·        Fertilize shade and peach trees.

·        Cut leaf material down to ground level after frost has killed the leaf stalks on perennial vegetables like asparagus and rhubarb.

·        Mulch evergreens.

·        Store apples or pears separately from vegetables.  These fruits give off a gas that speeds the ripening and breakdown of vegetables and that also changes their flavors.

·        Water all trees and shrubs thoroughly every week until the ground freezes to prevent winter windburn.

The Last Week of November:

·        Cut chrysanthemum stems back to ground level after they have stopped blooming. Add these stems, dried leaves and branches to the compost pile.

·        Collect grapevines for making wreaths after the leaves have fallen in the woods.

·        While in the woods, collect nuts, old bird nests, and pine cones to be used for decorating.

·        Pay careful attention to houseplants throughout the winter.

·        Check guy wires around newly planted trees to make sure they will not be damaged by windy weather throughout the fall and winter.

SEPTEMBER GARDENING CALENDER

First week in September:
• Have soil tested to determine the amount of lime and fertilizer required and apply to lawn area.
• Space strawberry runner plants about six inches apart. Pull out extra plants.
• Start tomato plant indoors in a peat pot. Select a short-day variety such as ‘Pixie.’ When large enough, transplant into 3 ½ -inch or larger pot and place in the sunniest window. Water and feed it regularly, and tomatoes will be ready for Christmas dinner.

Second Week:
• Collect and dry herb blossoms, grasses and seed pods to decorate holiday wreaths.
• Start cuttings from geraniums and begonias.
• Start new begonias by digging and dividing roots. Use a sharp knife to slice through the root system. When dividing, each division should have three or four buds (the small pinkish-colored buds at the crown of the roots). When planting new roots and buds, do not place the tops deeper than two inches below the soil surface; otherwise, the plant will produce foliage but may seldom bloom. Provide moisture to promote new root growth.

Third Week:
• Clean up garden debris and add to compost pile, or turn under vegetation. To improve soil structure and decrease erosion during the winter, plant a cover crop. These winter cover crops can be planted from Sept. 1 through Nov. 1.
• Take in Thanksgiving or Christmas cactus and place on a cool porch or cool part of the house. Do not water for four weeks so that buds can set. After that time, fertilize well and resume weekly watering.

Final Week:
• Keep strawberry beds weed free. Every weed pulled now will make weeding much easier next spring.
• When planting spring bulbs, the depth of planting varies with the size of the bulb; for example, tulips are about 5-6 inches; for daffodils, 5-7 inches; 3-4 inches for hyacinths; and 1 ½ -3 inches for small bulbs. A good rule of thumb when planting bulbs is to set them three times as deep as the bulbs’ greatest width.
• Take poinsettia inside. It is best to repot into a similar but slightly larger container, using a regular commercial potting soil. Place in a warm sunny window.
• Don’t wait for frost warnings to take houseplants indoors. For many tropical houseplants, night temperatures of 50 deg. or lower can cause damage. Check all houseplants for pests and diseases and repot if needed.

AUGUST GARDENING CALENDER

First week of August:

v     Now is the ideal time to take pictures and plan for next year’s vegetable and flower gardens.

v     Order your spring flowering bulbs now.

v     Check your garden plants, shrubs, flowers and trees for diseases and insect pests.

v     Begin planning and planting your fall vegetables, such as lettuce, radishes, kale, spinach, carrots, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and peas.

Mid-August:

v     Apply a second treatment of lawn insecticide for grub control or use milky spore dust, a bacteria that will attack more than 40 species of white grubs; this can be applied anytime.

v     Collect materials for dried flower arrangements, including weeds, flowers, marsh grasses and foliage.

v     Prepare lawn or lawn areas that are going to be seeded.

v     Feed roses for the last time.

v     Check azaleas if they are beginning to look pale green to yellow. This is called chloritic. Check soil pH. These acid-loving plants need to be fed.

Late August:

v     Grapes that are ripening now perish easily so keep refrigerated after harvesting.

v     Inspect trunks and branches of dogwoods and other trees for injured bark or fine dust pushed from burrows in trunks by borers.

v     Fertilize fall vegetable garden plants.

v     Plant new lawns or reseed bare spots in old lawns. This can be done until Sept. 30 in Delaware. If it’s dry, be sure to water newly seeded lawns every day.

July Gardening Calender

First week:

·        Feed roses.

·        Watch for mites on roses, shrubs, trees and ground covers.

·        Control Japanese beetles on roses, crape myrtle, grapes and other host plants. Keep in mind, traps attract beetles, so hang them away from the plant you want to protect.

·        Harvest and hang herbs before they go to bloom. Tie in little bunches and hang in a ventilated warm space to cure. After thoroughly dried, put in sealed jars for winter use.

Second week:

·        Pinch back chrysanthemums for the last time.

·        Deadhead rhododendrons to increase next year’s flowers. Remember to remove only spent flower heads. Do not damage newly expanded leaves.

·        Keep all newly planted and shrubs watered; soak thoroughly once a week, either mornings or early evenings.

·        Increase the mowing heights on your lawn mower during dry, hot summer days.

·        Prepare to harvest onions. When seedpods start to form, turn tops down and allow another two weeks for the onions to ripen before harvesting. Dry harvested onions in the shade before storing.

Third week:

·        Check tomatoes for late blight and fruit for hornworms. Treat with a product labeled for that purpose. Handpick hornworms and destroy them.

·        Water shrubs and trees planted this year, if necessary.

·        Harvest vine-ripened fruits.

Last week:

·        Continue efforts to control Japanese beetles and other garden pests.

·        Divide bearded iris when clumps are too large.

Tips for Watering Garden and Landscape Plants

Sprinklers

            When using sprinklers, keep the water pattern even by moving the sprinkler frequently and overlapping about one-half of each pattern.  Place oscillating sprinklers higher than the plants to prevent water from being diverted by plant leaves.  Do not apply water faster than the soil can absorb it.  Be sure the sprinkler is not watering the sidewalk, street, or any other paved surface.

Soaker hoses

            There is a variety of special soaker hoses available.  These can reduce water-loss due to evaporation and run-off and generally do not cost more than normal garden hoses.  Perforated plastic hoses or soaker hoses should be placed with holes facing downward along one side of the crop row or underneath mulch.  Water will slowly soak in the soil without wetting foliage, thus decreasing evaporation and the risk of foliage-fungal diseases.

Trickle or drip irrigation

            Trickle or drip irrigation is very efficient since it applies water to each plant’s root zone at a rate consistent with its moisture requirements.  It can reduce water use by as much as 50% to 80% compared to overhead irrigation.  Another advantage of this system is that foliage stays dry, reducing the potential for foliage disease problems.

           

IT IS BEST to water early in the morning and then water only when needed.  When watering, fill the entire root area and then allow the soil to partially dry out before the next watering.  The speed of drying depends on the type of plant, the plant size, the type of soil and weather conditions (sunny and windy conditions dry faster).

           

            A small or newly established plant will need watering every few days to one week.  Since seeds and seedlings should never be allowed to dry, they need more frequent watering.  A vegetable garden should be watered when the soil within one inch of the surface feels dry to the touch.  Once plants are established, watering may be frequent to encourage the roots to grow deeper.  This can be done by gradually extending the length of time between watering.

            In closing, to avoid wasting our valuable natural resources, it is very important to provide the correct amount and proper method of watering to ensure healthy vigorous plants.